Looper Shutdown with a rattle noise

N

nymack66

God
Hey guys,
I really need help now big time, I took the Boat out today all was working well, made one stop after a 1/2 hour run at 4 to 5000 RPM, it acted really weird and will not start acted like a dead battery.
Waited a few minutes and she fired right up.
Ran for another 1/2 hour trolling and WOT at times.
Around 4000 RPM when it suddenly started to die down with a loud rattling sound, I immediately shut it down.
I try to start it and its making a rattling sound like something is loose inside and it will not start, I did a compression check on the 1 and 3 cylinder both shows around 60 I am completely stump all the plugs looks ok well oiled it did not overheat since I saw it running at 140 degrees.
 
nymack66 said:
Hey guys,
I really need help now big time, I took the Boat out today all was working well, made one stop after a 1/2 hour run at 4 to 5000 RPM, it acted really weird and will not start acted like a dead battery.
Waited a few minutes and she fired right up.
Ran for another 1/2 hour trolling and WOT at times.
Around 4000 RPM when it suddenly started to die down with a loud rattling sound, I immediately shut it down.
I try to start it and its making a rattling sound like something is loose inside and it will not start, I did a compression check on the 1 and 3 cylinder both shows around 60 I am completely stump all the plugs looks ok well oiled it did not overheat since I saw it running at 140 degrees.
Click to expand...

60 psi, that doesnt sound good, rattling on a looper probably wrist pin or ring failure. i would pull the head on that side and look for the bits and pieces that are impregnated on the piston.
 
Sounds like it leaned out on yeah. Like I was saying in post #2 about your plugs, that one plug REALLY concerned me from the white on it. When you say it acted like a dead battery after a hard run, that is a direct indicator of a stuck piston. Chances are you smeared it when you tried to start it and it didn't kick right off. The rattling is most likely a smeared piston skirt that is rattling against the cylinder wall. Been there, done that. 140 is hot if that is what it was cruising, an old school looper should run 140-170 at idle and IMMEDIATLEY drop to about 100-120 at 3000-4500 and bump 130 maybe 135 under WOT on a hot day. Pull the head on that side and look for signs of aluminum stuck to the cylinder walls, but the head needs to come off.

Let me know if it's bad, my 140 could be made available if it's bad and you don't want to build it.
 
Ok I will pull the heads and see what exactly whats going on, Could it be a broken reed? Since I found lots of pre-mix oil in the Air baffle ?
 
A broken reed could have done the damage, but they normally window the block when they go through. Remember that a 2 stroke has 2 different compression sides to it, in front of and behind the piston. A compression test only measures in front of the piston and a broken or missing reed won't affect it unless when it broke it went through the engine and damaged the piston or cylinder. Unfortunately though your compression numbers along with the noise is a bad sign, and most likely means that boring and new pistons is in your future. You may be able to clean them with some acid and put just pistons in it, but I'm not normally that lucky. My 140 looper pops at 150-155 pounds of compression, so that should give you an idea of how far down you are. When you pull the heads look for smeared spots on the cylinder walls, that will be the aluminum from the pistons. It is possible on the looper engines though to pull the pistons out with the powerhead still on the mid.
 
Another source of a rattling noise could be magnets coming loose under the flywheel...but that would not explain low compression...Ferm's probably right...as usual :party:
 
reelapeelin said:
Another source of a rattling noise could be magnets coming loose under the flywheel...but that would not explain low compression...Ferm's probably right...as usual :party:
Click to expand...

140's didn't suffer this problem as the magnets in them are encased into the flywheel(not epoxied like the 35 amp flywheels), unless somebody installed a 35 amp V6 style charging system.
 
well you can still have a 140 with loose magnets, i have a pair of 140's that both have the 35 amp system and had to re-glue the magnets. never seen them on any 120 / 140 except a 25 inch motor, i've never seen them on a short shaft even though the manual says they made them.
 
The sea-drives all had the 35 amps systems as well, but not many 120/140's did. I've considered finding a blown V-6 and swapping the stator and flywheel over to my 140 to get the higher output charging system. The factory charging system on the early V4 loopers SUCKS! I got a whopping 1.3 amps at idle, and 3.6 amps at 3500. 5000 got me up to 6.3 and 6100 got me 8.56 amps(I guess just enough to call it a 9 amp system). This was with a new stator and rectifier.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Sounds like it leaned out on yeah. Like I was saying in post #2 about your plugs, that one plug REALLY concerned me from the white on it. When you say it acted like a dead battery after a hard run, that is a direct indicator of a stuck piston. Chances are you smeared it when you tried to start it and it didn't kick right off. The rattling is most likely a smeared piston skirt that is rattling against the cylinder wall. Been there, done that. 140 is hot if that is what it was cruising, an old school looper should run 140-170 at idle and IMMEDIATLEY drop to about 100-120 at 3000-4500 and bump 130 maybe 135 under WOT on a hot day. Pull the head on that side and look for signs of aluminum stuck to the cylinder walls, but the head needs to come off.

Let me know if it's bad, my 140 could be made available if it's bad and you don't want to build it.
Click to expand...

Ferm,
Thanks for the offer PM me please with the details and asking price of your 140 I may just install a new motor at this point and keep mine as a spare.
My bad spell never seem to end, Last week Trailer Stolen, I was in the ER two days later with chest pains , now blown looper !
 
nymack66 said:
Ferm,
Thanks for the offer PM me please with the details and asking price of your 140 I may just install a new motor at this point and keep mine as a spare.
My bad spell never seem to end, Last week Trailer Stolen, I was in the ER two days later with chest pains , now blown looper !
Click to expand...


Dang Mack...a bad spell fo sho!!...:nut:...hope things turn around for you and glad you got outta the hospital standin' upright!!...
 
I cannot offer one word of advice here, but just chiming in to say sorry for all your troubles, and glad to hear the chest pains were apparently not too serious. They say bad luck runs in threes, and you have had your three early in the season, so hopefully it is smooth sailing from here on.
 
Thanks Guys for all the kind words I am feeling much better. All my test came back negative. Low potassium was the culprit for the chest pains, I have since added OJ and bananas to my diet.
Hopefully they will add potassium to my beer and I be ok.
I pull both heads no sign of damage. Maybe broken reeds ?
DSCF0002.jpg

DSCF0003.jpg

DSCF0004.jpg

DSCF0005.jpg

DSCF0006.jpg

DSCF0007.jpg
 
check the flywheel nut, make sure the flywheel is tight. I had a merc that was making rattling noises, found out the flywheel was loose, had to replace the flywheel.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
The sea-drives all had the 35 amps systems as well, but not many 120/140's did. I've considered finding a blown V-6 and swapping the stator and flywheel over to my 140 to get the higher output charging system. The factory charging system on the early V4 loopers SUCKS! I got a whopping 1.3 amps at idle, and 3.6 amps at 3500. 5000 got me up to 6.3 and 6100 got me 8.56 amps(I guess just enough to call it a 9 amp system). This was with a new stator and rectifier.
Click to expand...


you can't install a V6 flywheel on a V4 been there and the 35 amp V4 has a smaller flywheel and the V6 will not clear the starter nor the carbs, you must use a V4 35 amp set up


hey post us a pic of your flywheel so we can see which you have. and the pistons and cylinders look fine um will it turn by hand and if so any tight spots?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top