1987 140 V4..

N

nymack66

God
I was told my Electric primer is defective by a local dealer and should be replaced.
It does click when I push on the ignition.
I was thinking on removing the hoses (both sides) highlighted in the attached photo and verify is gas squirts out when I push on the key.
Assuming I see gas then the all is well yes?
Reason is when I trailer the boat to the dock it takes a while and lots if spinning to start even after priming it and using the choke.
I am suspecting its not getting a nice shot of gas to start cold? After starting even warm I have to move the throttle up a little for it to start then moving it back instantly to idle it will continue to run fine.
My goal is to get it to start easily rather than spinning the starter.
 

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The 85-87 loopers require you to open the throttle slightly to start them(hot or cold), if you idle them up so that they cold start easily then it will idle way too fast in gear. In 88 they added the QUIKSTART feature to advance the timing and help with starting. Easiest way to test your primer is with it running push the key in. If it loads up with fuel it's fine and working, if it doesn't change then the primer isn't working. Another overlooked item is that the primer system is fed it's pressure via the fuel pump. Alot of people don't pump up the primer ball and then the primer won't work because there isn't any pressure available yet. There was also some issues with the primer solonoid having a cap failure and not working. There used to be a repair kit for this.

And the hoses you have circled in red are for the idle recirc valves, not the primer system. The fuel prime system sprays the fuel into the intake behind the carbs.
 
If I'm not mistaken I have the same system.
It's not like the traditional choke yet you have to keep holding "choke" till the engine is happy with everything.
Mine I have to occasionally "choke" it throughout warming up.
That said, yes it is like a manual or electric choke, keep pushing in the key it till the motor is happy.

The gas should scoot out as the fuel pump allows pressure, if not the primer (choke) solonoid could be bad or a blockage might be the problem.

THEFERM already has you fixed, do like he says
 
Maybe this picture will show them

Picture295.jpg

This is a V6, not your motor. The general location.
 
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tsubaki those are the idle recirc valves on your engine. I'll try and get a picture of a V4 up later, but these pills I'm on right now for my throat have my head spinnin.
 
That was the only picture I had of the intake and hoses.
Your correct, I couldn't tell from the picture and trying to remember what was what. Found the hose routing diagram.
Picture253a.jpg
 
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In the above diagram, the ones coming from the solonoid to the top of each carb (one has a T in it connecting two carbs) should be it.
This is off a "83, 90hp in the garage.
003-8.jpg
 
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BELIEVE ME, you DON'T want them! It's an antibiotic, but it is so strong that I can't hardly move around, going through cold sweats non stop, and now the diarhea has started:bat:. I AINT HAPPY RIGHT NOW:nut:.
 
Update !!!

You guys are awesome; I made a critical mistake when bolting up the air silencer (cover in front of carburetors) during the re-jetting of carburetors two weeks ago. I accidentally severed one of the two tiny hose coming from primer solenoid into the block directly behind the carburetors it was caught between the cover and the block and was completely cut in two pieces.
You are correct in regards to the hoses, I did an observation on the engine during the fix today; I blow compress air through the choke of course I am still tasting gas in my mouth.
I am optimistic I will get a better start and idle since it was properly sucking in air via the severed hose.
I will post an update tomorrow since I take it out running again.
Also since I swap in the correct lower unit, I examined the plugs for the firs time since running it successfully last weekend, plugs look excellent definitely not fouled as it did in the past.
I will monitor for the clicking and assumed it doing what it was suppose to do.
Dammed little part is about 150, if not I would have swap it.
 
This is why I love these guys!! I have not been to a marine wrench in 6 years!!
This is why I am really thinking on rebuilding the 225 I have here! I no the power head is fine, and if I rebuild all it will be perfect!! Even if I needed a new power head it would still be cheaper to rebuild mine then to buy new and than I can still fix it myself with the help of all these guys!

Etec is nice, but $15K later I still have no idea how to fix anything and no computer to do it with!
 
:clap:Figure if I could afford one, at least I would have 4-6 years to learn how to repair it when the warrenty runs out.
 
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