90 hp shift issue?

RidgeRunner

RidgeRunner

God
What am I looking at on a 90 Johnson that won't shift?
Cable is working and smooth, moves the linkage and the shift rod.
I can't remember how it attaches in the lower. Starts in gear irregardless of position of the shift rod (thankfully). I'll drop the lower after I finish the lobster dinner and post back. Thanks in advance.
 
before you drop the foot, i'd disconnect the cable at the engine and see if you can shift it by hand

enjoy the dinner
 
Disconnected the shift cable to try moving the lever by hand, no good. Lever moves the shift rod just as it should and same as it does with the controls hooked up. I could get a dirty neutral by moving the lever forward all the way. Dropped the lower, looking for my manual.
 
Found the book. Done for the day.. The entire lower has to come apart. The screw up is in the nosecone forwardmost. Now we get to see what all the bearings and gears look like. :oh: AGAIN!
 
10-4 Ferm, as I recall it takes a 12 pt thin wall socket and a pipe wrench on the shaft. I had it apart to change the dog gear a while back. Discovered some large pieces of the pinion gear missing so I changed the gears too. I am hoping it looks better this go-round. Just recooperating from vacation so it ain't gonna happen today. Funny thing, it acted up a day or two before it quit. Wouldn't go in reverse for a second, like it was in a bind. Went to forward OK, then went right into reverse so I didn't think anything about it until it went south. Whatever it is was hurt and finally gave up. Manuvering in for the kill while chasing lobster requires a lot of gear changing on the skiff. I worked it to death.
BTW- Your economy tune allowed me 17.5 MPG down and back with the skiff in tow. The wife's 5.3 Tahoe got about the same just hauling itself down and back and she was drafting. Thank you.. :sly:
 
Good to hear about the milage, I just put that same basic tune in an 07 LMM with DPF delete and he is getting a shade over 21 mixed driving. There is a roll pin I belive in the shifter portion that can shear off, sounds like that may be your issue.
 
Something isn't right in there. I was working the shifter rod by hand and pulled out the detent lever completely. Now there should be a spring and ball bearing floating around in there. With a flashlight it appears the shift lever and pin are intact. Maybe the cradle went south, maybe I just have a bent lever. We will see later today I hope.
 
Broken shift lever is the official diagnosis. The arms that extend down into the cradle were broken clean off. That allowed the shift lever to rotate back and out of the way far enough to allow the detent lever to pull up and out. I donno what I was thinking about when I said 12 pt socket to remove the pinion nut Ferm. With the dog gear in the way you can only squeeze a wrench in there. Maybe the rod bolts required the 12 pt. LOL WTF, I am blonde and it was a few years ago when I last had the lower apart.. Seal kit, cradle and shift lever ordered, about $90.00.
Cleaning all these parts will be fun. I will try to post a picture.
 
Yup, the $13.47 shift lever. I have heard of this part breaking before.
Shoving it into gear without the engine running is probably the #1 cause to kill it. If the Dog gear doesn't sync with the ring gears properly it puts pressure on this piece as well as all of the linkage. (Shift shaft, Shifter pins, control cables etc.) I think shift rod height out of whack could possibly cause it to be in a bind also. This is the lever and cradle. 90 Johnson Lower Unit 002.jpg
 
Got the lower back together. It is somewhat easier than putting a watch back together. Certain things like getting the pinion in place, and nut on will test your patience. A little tape on a wrench to hold the nut and a little twisting of the driveshaft to get it started while you hold the droplight with your third hand. I didn't beat the book time on the repair but it is holding gear dope and I don't have any parts left over. Seems to shift great by hand. All that is remaining is mounting it to the motor and testing.
 
Fix one thing then another..

Repair complete, save for the test on the hose to ensure the idle and shifting is OK. Contactor in the starter solenoid welded itself closed on the second attempt to start, had to scramble around to get the battery wires disconnected from the battery and hopefully prevented any damage to the starter.. Weak battery, will charge today and order another starter solenoid. Reel was just saying something about an onboard charger?
 
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