Bilge Issue Help and Advice

[rrichar1]

I have a 18 Fisherman CC that seems to get a lot of water in the bilge and was wondering if somebody could explain to me how the self draining works on the V20 (which should be the same as mine?)? I have the two white drains with the cross in them in the floor in the channels that lead to the two holes on the bottom port/starboard sides and the water obviously drains to the port/starboard thru hull fittings. Sorry for the stupid question but how do they drain water when they are below the water line? Check valve?

I just repowered and the two drain holes in the transom seem to stay right at the water line so I have to keep transom plugs in them now. Don't recall if the old JohnnyRude which weighed about 25 lbs less made the boat do this as well.

I'm adding a second bilge (RuleMate 1500) as the primary to go along with the existing Rule 500 manual pump I inherited and will make it the backup. I have to cut a new hole for the 1 1/8 thru hull fitting and the new line I'm going to add. I've also bought a Rule bilge alarm I'm going to add.

I want to run both the alarm straight to the battery as well as the new 1500 bilge pump. Is this an acceptable practice? Do I need to install the suggested 1 amp (alarm) and 10 amp (pump) if I do this? The 500 gph pump will stay on a manual switch.

I'm going to move the 500 gph pump and install the alarm on a 2x4 piece of treated wood so they will sit slightly higher. Is this high enough?

Thanks for any advice/help.

 

[willy]

rrichar I do not know all your answers but the weight on the back does make a difference in where those thru hulls sit in relation to the water line.
The cockpit drains called scuppers have enough pressure from the water weight to push it through.
But if they are sitting at or in the water line, or get that way thru boat action on the water, water will go in and out. It is a pain in the arse sometimes.
The main way they work best is under power moving forward. Even slowly, the pressure from the water forces out the thru hulls pretty fast.
As far as wiring I would wait for one of the masters here to fill you in, or just follow the manufacturers instructions.
**** A word of caution, plugging those thru hulls from the outside is dangerous. If you catch a good wave your boat will swamp immediately and you will have tough time getting to those plugs fast enough.
Remember that if you do take on water, keep the boat moving forward under power and the cockpit will drain.********

 

[tartuffe]

I'll try and help on the first part. When the drains from your splashwell out your transom are below the water line, the deck drains are right at or just below waterline. There is nothing more than a curved tube going from the deck drains to the splashwell. If you are getting alot of water in your bilge one possibility is that those once flexible tubes are brittle and cracked or you may have leaky connections. Mine tend to leak at a fast drip.

Not sure how clear that explanation is but your deck is maybe 1" or 2" above the waterline. Add couple people and gear and you are just above the waterline. No check valves to prevent you from getting a very wet deck.

My automatic bilge is straight wired to the battery. I like that as low as I can get it but others may object. Any water that gathers in the bilge is only making your hardly effective deck drains less effective. I like my manual bilge equally low if it will fit.

The trick is mounting both. There is only a piece of wood maybe 8" x8" glassed into your hull for this. Any other area and the glass is not very thick.

 

[rrichar1]

For reference here are some pictures. The plugs I was talking about are on the inside of the transom and I simply put transom plugs in 'em. But if I took them out water would come in the boat.

The outside scupper flaps in the transom need to be replaced, they have lost their ability to close when water presses up agains them (?).

I can see daylight in looking in the side of the boat at the self draining fittings where they go into the boat and curve upwards.

My dealer moved the motor up two 'clicks' / holes (?) and it didn't seem to take on as much water yesterday when I went fishing at the Galveston jetties but it was calm. This was the first time I've had it out since he did that.

Ron

 

[spareparts]

do a search on here for bilge pumps, I've gone over my opinions several times about how i think pumps should be done(too tired to type it all out tonight). Short version, bigger is better, too big is just right, two pumps are the minimum.

 

[phatdaddy]

if you were asking if you need fuses, the answer is yes.

 

[Destroyer]

For reference here are some pictures. The plugs I was talking about are on the inside of the transom and I simply put transom plugs in 'em. But if I took them out water would come in the boat.

The outside scupper flaps in the transom need to be replaced, they have lost their ability to close when water presses up agains them (?).

I can see daylight in looking in the side of the boat at the self draining fittings where they go into the boat and curve upwards.

My dealer moved the motor up two 'clicks' / holes (?) and it didn't seem to take on as much water yesterday when I went fishing at the Galveston jetties but it was calm. This was the first time I've had it out since he did that.

Ron

500 lbs is 500 lbs, whether it's mounted 4" higher or lower than before. If anything, since there is a slight inward angle to the stern, raising the engine will shift the weight slightly backward and will increase the amount of weight pressing down on the stern since the center of gravity will have shifted slightly backwards... much like a see-saw. I seriously doubt that you could measure it just by looking at the waterline though.

The outside scupper flaps are only designed to stop wave pressure from forcing water up into the tubes. They are not a seal per se. If you want a seal, install check valves.

 

[rrichar1]

Thanks for the replies folks.

This is what I ended up doing:
- Installed the old bilge pump and new auto 1500 Rulemate pump at the same level. I noticed that the auto takes on a lot of water before it turns on.
- I mounted the Rule Bilge alarm on a 2x4 and mounted it on the incline a little but it still may be to low. I need to test and see how much water it will kick on at.
- As suggested here I did run a new line for the new 1500 and first tried using the 162 series 1 1/8 hose but it was to rigid (lack of working room) and ended up having to go with the corrugated 'bilge' plastic hose. I will just have to watch it over the years, I know it's not the best option.
- I have a dual battery system and am going to attach both the new pump and the bilge alarm to my starting battery WITHOUT a fuse. Can you guys comment on this please? Real bad idea?

Thanks for your opinions.

 

[phatdaddy]

why would you not fuse anything electrical?
i had a bottom machine once i wired in without a fuse(it only draws 1-2 amps, i don't need no stinkin fuses). the power cord was wrapped around the hydraulic steering hoses. the machine shorted, the wire got red hot & melted the steering hose. we were 7 miles offshore when the smoke came bellowing out of the console.

yea , i think you need a fuse.

 

[gw204f]

Take however many batteries are in that boat and move them under the console....if you haven't already.

 

[Destroyer]

why would you not fuse anything electrical?
i had a bottom machine once i wired in without a fuse(it only draws 1-2 amps, i don't need no stinkin fuses). the power cord was wrapped around the hydraulic steering hoses. the machine shorted, the wire got red hot & melted the steering hose. we were 7 miles offshore when the smoke came bellowing out of the console.

yea , I think you need a fuse.

The problem with fusing a bilge pump is if you get anything binding the pump impeller you'll blow the fuse and then you have no pumping. This sometimes happens with a small piece of mono or braid as an example. While I agree that a fuse is necessary on any piece of electrical equipment there are two hard and fast rules you must follow for your bilge pump fuse.

1) Make it very easy to access...I'll repeat...make it VERY easy to get to..especially in an emergency.
2) Have plenty of spare fuses of the right size on hand right near the fuse holder.. 1 pkg is good, 2 pkgs is better.

Personally, I prefer a circuit breaker type of setup, but that's just me.

 

[smokeonthewater]

ever consider STOPPING the water from reaching the bilge???

you absolutely NEED a fuse or circuit breaker on EVERY circuit in the boat.... taking on water is bad but burning is WORSE

Don't "keep an eye on" the hose but rather replace it long before it becomes brittle.

x2 on moving batts forward.... mine (3 of them) are under a hatch in the floor in front of the console.

You might consider wiring one pump to each batt.... that way one dead batt won't sink you.... pun intended...

 

[Kracker Jack]

I agree with numerous ideas on this one. Move as much weight forward as you can (batteries,coolers,external fuel cells? etc..) I have had great success with ball scuppers on many boats I have owned I have one pictured. And definitely put a inline fuse to your bilge pumps if you hook them straight to the battery. I have also done research on the bilge hose and Im gonna be using a white sanitation hose like what is used in marine a camper applications. I hear the smooth wall on the sanitation hose will let your bilges run much better, plus it has good longevity.

 

[Cam]

From experience (not all good), always wire directly to the batteries on a fused line. Always have 2 pumps. Always have the larger of the 2, your primary (lowest point) pump. Always have one pump on each battery. And finally, replace any suspect hoses you think might be leaking. These suggestions will allow you to sleep much better at night.