Emergency kill circuit ?

Joker2

Joker2

Junior Member
Question for my nightmare troubleshooting problem, already lost 3 weeks with the boat, here goes: I have a 1994 150 HP Ocean Pro, I have no spark on motor, when I disconnect the 1 pin amphenol style connector on the black / yellow wire ( kill circuit ) back by the power pack the engine starts and runs fine. Changed kill switch and ignition switch, I get same results, is it possible that the power pack or the stator could be bad or is it definitely in the wiring of the kill circuit ? Thanks for the help.
 
try cranking the engine with that wire connected, but with the engine harness disconnected. Start out by running the engine like you had it with the black yellow wire disconnected, then after its warmed up and will start easy, hook the wire back up, disconnect the main wiring harness on the engine. Go to the starter solenoid, jump from the big red(battery cable) to the yellow red(it may take a jumper wire) and see if the engine will run, that will tell you if its the engine side, or the boat side. If it runs with that black yellow wire hooked up, but with the harness disconnected, the engine is OK. While its running, turn the ignition key to the run position, with the kill switch in the run position. Hook the harness back up, if the engine shuts down, there's something in the boat side that causing the trouble. Several things to check on the boat side if its the problem, make sure you have the wires on the key switch correct terminals, make sure you have an outboard key switch and not an I/O switch. Make sure your kill switch is for an outboard, if it has 4 terminals, make sure you have it hooked up to the no terminals
 
thanks I will try today, I just replaced the ignition switch and kill switch with OMC parts, thay are wired correct, I made sure. Thanks
 
spareparts said:
try cranking the engine with that wire connected, but with the engine harness disconnected. Start out by running the engine like you had it with the black yellow wire disconnected, then after its warmed up and will start easy, hook the wire back up, disconnect the main wiring harness on the engine. Go to the starter solenoid, jump from the big red(battery cable) to the yellow red(it may take a jumper wire) and see if the engine will run, that will tell you if its the engine side, or the boat side. If it runs with that black yellow wire hooked up, but with the harness disconnected, the engine is OK. While its running, turn the ignition key to the run position, with the kill switch in the run position. Hook the harness back up, if the engine shuts down, there's something in the boat side that causing the trouble. Several things to check on the boat side if its the problem, make sure you have the wires on the key switch correct terminals, make sure you have an outboard key switch and not an I/O switch. Make sure your kill switch is for an outboard, if it has 4 terminals, make sure you have it hooked up to the no terminals
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Thats EXACTLY what I was gonna say. LOL!



You da man Spare! :beer:
 
OK today I went down and followed some tests given by CDI. First I checked spark. I have no spark on the Port side of motor, even with the black yellow wire ( kill circuit ) pulled apart. Explains why engine was starting but running bad ( only 3 cyl. ) Now I feel it is not the kill circuit. I pull the 6 wire plug on the starboard side going into the powerepack. Crank it , Port side now has spark. They say if you get spark back to go ahead and check bl/yw and bl/ orange for a short to grnd. Did that it was OK. Then to check to see if the shift interupter switch is located in the circuit where there is no spark. I can't find anything about the shift interupter switch in my SELOC book. Any thoughts ?
 
I thought the neutral switch only interrupted the starter solenoid and had nothing to do with the kill portion.
 
That's what I thought, but those bl / yw wires up by the power pack continue down the starboard side to some kind of switch that rests on top of one of the shift cable. can't find that switch ( if that's what it is ) on my diagram. You know what that is?
 
shift interrupt allows the engine to come out of gear when shifting. should be located where the shift cable terminates at the power head. Disconnect it at the switch and see how it does
 
I was having a similar problem a month or so ago with my 1985 150 Johnson. After a new ignition switch i still had the same problem. Turned out it was a combo of; a wire getting smashed between the two halves of the control box and a red wire that was not making contact in the connector for the remote control. I moved my ignition switch to the dash and jumped the red wire around the connector and haven't had any problem since.
 
I disconnected the shift switch, cranked it still had no spark on port side. Jasoncoopercola I have looked at all my wires and have fixed a bunch of pinched wires, I was in the control box quite a bit, all is good in there. I think it's on to testing the powerpack and the stator, but i need a peak voltage reading DVA which I do not have.
 
Yes, with the main wiring harness connected I have no spark at all. With the starboard side 6 pin plug going into the power pack disconnected the motor starts and runs ( crappy )on the # 1,3,5 cyl. only. I also get the same results when i only unplug the bl/yw 1 pin amphenol style plug up by the powerpack.
 
was the key turned on and the kill switch in operational position when you checked spark with the harness plugged in? If it was, you have an issue with the key switch, kill switch or the harness itself. You could still have otehr issues with the engine side. You're going to need a dva meter to diagnose any further. If you want to try a couple other things, shin a flash light under the flywheel, look for the magnets to be out of position, cracked or stuck together. Secondly, swap the leads to the coils form one side to the other, see if the spark moves with it, if it doesn't and still fires on 1 3 5, check the coils grounding straps, they are known to corroded and not ground. Pull the cover off the power pack, look under the cover and make sure you don't have any wires pinched, pull each an-phenol plug apart and check the connections. Look around for any black yellow wires you haven't disconnected yet, if you find any more, unhook them and look for spark on all 6. If this doesn't get it, you're going to have to get a dva adapter
 
I just replaced kill switch and ignition switch so I know they are good, I will check out those other suggestions right after the storm passes, if my boat makes it through. Thanks
 
if you didn't have any spark with the engine harness hooked up, you still have a problem with the boat side of the electrical, whether its the harness,m key switch, kill switch or what ever, make sure you do all your testing on the engine with the harness disconnected, once you get fire on all 6, then go back and start diagnosing the boat side.
 
Finally fixed motor, when the mechanic gave me a newer control box he spliced my harness and did a crappy job. The bl/ yw kill circuit wire was exposed int three spots and so was the yw / rd power wire. redid the whole thing " the right way " she runs better than ever real smooth, no shaking. I am still only getting 4-4200 RPM's though. Speed is 29-31 MPH at 4000. Prop is 15-1/2 X 15. she jumps onto plane. I can get a hold of a SS 14 X 19. My friend has this on his 21' Hydra Sports ( heavier than mine )with an 89' 200HP Evinrude on a gil bracket, he gets 6,000 RPM's sometimes more, and his boat is FAST ! not sure exactly the speed but it has to be around 45. Do you think this will make up the difference? Will it be a dog out of the hole? Also the mechanic told me when I bought the motor that he put on a lower unit that was a newer year than the 94' motor, could the gearing be different in the lower unit ?
 
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