Finally starting CC Restoration

thanks guys, I just hope I didnt add too much weight back there. Been keeping the shop at 80 for an hour after layingup and the resin has been setting up nice. I'm using a winter resin that stays thin and cures when temps are inconcistent.
I had deck drains thru the transom with check balls. Has anyone converted to side drains or modified to improve the previous setup. I'm powering with a 200 hpdi if I can find one.
 
I put my drains out the side. I used inline check valves that TH Marine makes. It works pretty good except about once a year I have to disassemble the check valves and clean out all the dog hair that gets in there and clogs it up. If you don't have a dog it will work pretty good.
 
On one of REEL's boats he had the drains going out the back wall of the cockpit instead of the floor...don't know if it makes it better or not.

I bought a set of drains like he has but have yet to put them in.

Maybe he will come along and post a pic and give a review.
 
I DO NOT recommend eliminating the side discharge thru hulls. I did on mine and have the deck drains emptying into the splashwell to eliminate two extra holes in the hull. Drains a lot slower and whatever crud you have on your deck ends up in the splash well. Sounded like a good idea, just didn't work that way.
 
This how the drains were setup. Now with the new transom, before I drill holes I want to be sure thru transom is the best considering that im putting a 200hp on. The dual batteries will now be under console to help balance the extra weight. Oh also the transom is 25" now

 
If it were me Johnson, I'd run them out the sides of the hull instead of through the transom. Don't need to drill any more holes in the wood at or even below the water line than you have to. I would wait to hang the outboard first and see how she floats before drilling the new ones too. You want them to be as high as possible, but they need to drain well too.


p.s. I can tell thats gonna be a sweet looking V.
 
Thanks Bradford, The thought crossed my mind to wait and see the water line. I will be at the shop tomorrow to see how that lays out.
 
Here is how I did my deck drains. I thought about going out the side but figured if I ever took on a good amount of water it would drain better going out the back if I could get up some speed.

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As far as drilling through that new transom I know the feeling. I didn't even want to drill the holes to mount the jackplate after all that work. Just treat it like an exterior portion of the boat.

I overdrilled the holes. Loaded up some 6" paint rollers and kept swabbing the holes until there was barely any exposed grain. Then thicken some resin and put a nice thick layer in there with your gloved finger, wait for cure and use your drill with a little smaller hole-saw bit with some adhesive backed sandpaper on it to sand it down to where your thru hulls with checks just fit. Very simple and goes quick.
 
Randleman mentioned mine above...here's what I did from outside...fittings and hose all 1 1/2" ...used plastic for cost reduction figuring if I ever recore this particular hull, they'll be upgraded to SS


Here's the hose connecting the two fittings...Pete's has the backflow valves I would like to put in here someday...


And here's the interior fitting Randleman mentioned...I REELY like these as the opening is right down on the floor deck for water drainage...nothing to dam the flow...they also allow better drainage over the original in-floor drains because those had 90* elbows just under the floor which could lead to a clog, PLUS water going through from floor level actually had to go back UP to drain out of the boat...these allow all downward flow


Here's the thru hull w/200 Merc and batteries moved forward...but while fishing, if two guys at back of boat this did allow water in, so that's why it'll eventually get back flows like Pete's


Personally I like 'em out the sides instead of thru transom...good luck and keep the great posts comin"!!
 
Reely like those better Reel. You're right about the 90 causing them to flow a lot slower. After re doing my V I think I would have installed access hatches in the rear above where your drains are. Almost impossible to get to that area to install/check hull fittings and hose clamps. Better have some long arms when you drop your screwdriver down there and it's laying against the out side of the stringer. Something someone might consider doing.
 
Thanks all. those pics explain it all. Sometimes I'm a better looker than reader.
I haven't touched the boat for a few weeks, hope to spend some time as the weather gets better. This winter has really been tough to work around even with the boat being inside, i have to run a diesel heater in there and that gets expensive. I'm READY for spring!!
 
As tartuffe was saying, I personaly over drilled all my holes thru the transom a 1/2 an inch bigger than the needed hole. I then hot coated the raw transom ply with thinned resin....then i filled the entire hole back in with thickend peanut butter consistency resin and added some milled fibers for some integrity. after all that kicked off I drilled the holes to the appropiate size . what this does is creates a ring of resin 1/4 inch thick around your hole. I even went as far as roughing the hole with 80 grit and brushing and dabbing 2 coats of gelcoat and on top of that and glued my brass drain tubes in!!! my drain holes are bullet proof. your boats gonna be sweet, good luck with your build.
 
more progress July 2014

I've got a few things done in the past few weeks. Trying to be ready for the water by this weekend for the BB raft-up. It won't be finished completely by then but it should have the essentials.

 
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