THEFERMANATOR
God
You need to find where your compression was leaking. Broken reeds will not cause low compression unless something is jamming them closed and not allowing any air past.
Looper Shutdown with a rattle noise
- Thread starter nymack66
- Start date
Please see the flywheel photos on this link http:\\www.nymack66.com
As for the flywheel been loose I will check since I did pull it off last year !
What is the correct procedure for a compression check I disconnected the fuel line remove left 3 plugs in and connected to one cyl crank the engine about three turns. Is this correct?
As for the flywheel been loose I will check since I did pull it off last year !
What is the correct procedure for a compression check I disconnected the fuel line remove left 3 plugs in and connected to one cyl crank the engine about three turns. Is this correct?
Skools Out
God
9 amp charging so not a magnet issue. you could pull the carbs and look at the reeds or heck pull the reed body and look in the cylinders and turn by hand till each rod is at the hole then rock to see if you have a bad rod bearing or loose rod cap. those rod caps use either a 5/16 or 8 mm 12 point socket. must be a 12 point. you can check the torque of the rod cap bolts threw the reed holes as well. that 12 point 8mm is avail. at sears.
Steplift 72'
Junior Member
The pistons should not be "really loose" but they will slighly rock. I had a rattling 86' model 140 looper that still had 125 pounds of cranking compression. It turned out that a series of motors in 86' had carbs that ran the motors too lean, mine was one. In the first 6 months it had lost 400 rpm and sounded terrible. The piston tops and cylinders looked perfect but the lean running had worn the motor out in a couple hundred hours.
THEFERMANATOR
God
85 had ALOT of problems with the 140, and 86-early 87 did as well as far as carbs go. If you run the VRO they aren't too bad, but if you pre-mix it makes it worse MUCH WORSE! I spent several days re-jetting my carbs after I swapped from the early style 140 carbs used in 85 only to those that were used in 86 and the first of 87. The domes will be loose, but it's the skirt you have to worry about. If the piston skirts are loose the engine could have decent compression and still not idle. I was gonna mention that your pistons looked awfully loose from your pics, but it's hard to judge from pictures if they are too loose or not. OMC issued a bulletin though to jet up 2 sizes in the mains on the early loopers as the aggressive porting in them caused ALOT of lean out issues.
Steplift 72'
Junior Member
I tried to run the VRO, but while breaking in the new powerhead supplied by OMC, the oiling system on the other motor fouled up and quit working. Thankfully there was 50-1 in the tank for break in. I gave up on the VRO at that point, it alarmed when idling up to the dock after better than 6 hours running without consuming a drop of oil! I've used pre-mix on every motor since. Never another problem with those motors, I believe that aggressive porting must have been very efficient....they really performed and the pair used 15 gph at 4000 rpm with 17p SSTII's. Those 97' model loopers I had ran no where near the early model motors.
THEFERMANATOR
God
Yep, the 85-87 had the small 3.5" bore in them and the porting was pretty aggressive in the intake, but they had a BIG exhaust that was VERY efficient at cruise and up. The early motors were a bit doggy off idle and the 85 was pretty dead until 3600, but once the R's were up they would RUN. Another BIG issue with the early engines was the carbs and the fact that it was a completely new design for outboards, let alone new for OMC in general. The plastic carbs with aluminum bases became standard after that on loopers, but up until 85 it was brand new and not really tested much. Once you get the jetting down though they are GOOD on fuel and perform pretty good. And it seems like ALL of these loopers like a little different jetting once broke in.
Found it
The lower connecting rod number 4 cylinder was almost completely loose on the crank, it spun the bearing 1/2 inch off and froze to the crank, melted the bearings and was at the point to break free!
At this point I will swap in a re-build power head, the previous owner of this engine was one loose cannon base on issues I had with this engine, wrong lower unit now this.
I will post the pictures tonight.
The lower connecting rod number 4 cylinder was almost completely loose on the crank, it spun the bearing 1/2 inch off and froze to the crank, melted the bearings and was at the point to break free!
At this point I will swap in a re-build power head, the previous owner of this engine was one loose cannon base on issues I had with this engine, wrong lower unit now this.
I will post the pictures tonight.
Last edited:
Steplift 72'
Junior Member
I don't guess you can blame everything on VRO......but were you running the injection or pre-mix? Wrong lower unit??The lower connecting rod number 4 cylinder was almost completely loose on the crank, it spun the bearing 1/2 inch off and froze to the crank, melted the bearings and was at the point to break free!
At this point I will swap in a re-build power head, the previous owner of this engine was one loose cannon base on issues I had with this engine, wrong lower unit now this.
I will post the pictures tonight.
shaneburris74
Member
NYMack,
Sorry about all your troubles. I haven't been on in a while so I thought I would check in with yall. I don't see that anyone answered you on your compression check question.
You should have all the plug wires removed and be at WOT. Everything I read said to make sure the wires don't arc back to the engine, so I put electrical tape on mine. There is a ton of info. on it if you google it. Looks like you found your problem though.
As for me..my transom repair is still in the works..lol..I spent all the money I had saved up on dirt bikes for me and my kids because I didn't think the state of Georgia was gonna register the boat. Well, ..they registered it..now I gotta save some money back up and re-do the transom amongst other things. I'll be checking in on the site though.
I missed the t-shirt sales again this year..thats crappy. Be good.
Sorry about all your troubles. I haven't been on in a while so I thought I would check in with yall. I don't see that anyone answered you on your compression check question.
You should have all the plug wires removed and be at WOT. Everything I read said to make sure the wires don't arc back to the engine, so I put electrical tape on mine. There is a ton of info. on it if you google it. Looks like you found your problem though.
As for me..my transom repair is still in the works..lol..I spent all the money I had saved up on dirt bikes for me and my kids because I didn't think the state of Georgia was gonna register the boat. Well, ..they registered it..now I gotta save some money back up and re-do the transom amongst other things. I'll be checking in on the site though.
I missed the t-shirt sales again this year..thats crappy. Be good.
Update
Thanks guys for all your help, I decided to replace the power head with a re-build.
I am now using this down time to replace all the little things on the engine that is old or that I think will enhance the longevity of the new motor like all the check valves, flame arrestor hoses, reeds etc
Hopefully all the parts are here this weekend and I will assemble it.
In the mean time I am helping a friend restore a condo, finished the tiling and moving on to hardwood floors.
Thanks guys for all your help, I decided to replace the power head with a re-build.
I am now using this down time to replace all the little things on the engine that is old or that I think will enhance the longevity of the new motor like all the check valves, flame arrestor hoses, reeds etc
Hopefully all the parts are here this weekend and I will assemble it.
In the mean time I am helping a friend restore a condo, finished the tiling and moving on to hardwood floors.
THEFERMANATOR
God
40:1 would be fine for the break in. Also go easy on it for the first 30 minutes or so, she will be running HOT when she is burning the assembly oil off and the initial ring seating.
Ferm,
Thanks for all your help 40:1 it is, I am installing Boyesen Reeds any special tips on the air jets etc ?
THEFERMANATOR
God
My best advice about BOYESENS is DON'T RUN EM! I ran a set in my 225 and got about 5 hours out of em before it started coughing at idle. Get a set of Tony Doukas reeds and be done with it for good. Also be ABSOLUTELY certain which reeds you have as 85 and some 86's had the oddball reeds in em.
http://www.bansheedepot.com/default.asp
THEFERMANATOR
God
I believe the 6 petals are the standard style. Give him a call and he will know which ones you need. The TDR reeds use the factory hardware and reed stops, so make sure you save those. I know the TDR's idle better than stock, but not as good as the BOYESENS's do for there first hour of run time(after an hour of running my idle started slipping down). The throttle response though from the TDR's is UNBELIEVEABLE, and the power is smooth since they are single stage reeds. I know my engine used the 103's, but this was a 12 pack of reeds.
Skools Out
God
my 87 Evinrude 140 had a set of Boyesen reeds they worked great in mine never had the first issue but break them in as the directions tell you too.