My motor puked all over it's self!

shicks007

shicks007

Senior Member
Had a great day on the river with my two boys, my sister and my niece and nephew. We were tubing and just running around for a couple of hours. Well on the way back towards the boat ramp my motor picked up a bad knock, I slowed down and eventually it stalled. I pulled the heads off today to see if I could see anything, I did not see anything that caught my eye.

Somethings going on inside though, I can't rotate the flywheel all the way around, My buddy and I are thinking maybe a rod bearing or something. Whatcha think?
 
That sucks!!

I know all to well that sound of that!! Mine had the ring fail and its all over the cylinder wall! >:(
 
I thought you were going to describe what happened to me the first year I had my V20. I have an I/O and having not been familiar with them,didn't winterize it correctly :o. My neighbor and I went to winterize it in Jan. I started it up and Ovaltine shot up about a foot in the center of the engine!

As it turned out,the block had a footlong crack in it,and the rockers had completely separated from the head.

On the way home from work,my neighbor showed me an auto rag with a Chevy straight 6 250 for sale. By the next weekend I had it up and running again.

Paid $650 for the boat and trailer,around $300 to fix the block,and I was back in buisness.
 
I/O's are a wonderful thing for many reasons. Primarily, YOU can fix them. Screw the dealer. Secondly, parts is cheap. You can buy a brand new 260hp Chevy 350 for $1200 and spend about $70 to marinize it.
 
Skools Out said:
shouldn't be a rod bearing they are all roller bearings. in an outboard that is.
Click to expand...

So are the mains and wrist pin bearings.

The rule of thumb for us 4-stroke guys is that if it frees up as it cools down, it's a cylinder seizure. If it freezes up solid as it cools, it's a spun bearing. Since you don't have babbit bearings, this doesn't really apply to you. It is possible to seize a cylinder and lock it up permantently. But from the sounds of it, you're getting some movement? A rod bearing is possible and likely.
 
Sorry guys, forgot to say what kind of motor it is. It's a 1985 140 hp Evinrude.

I would say it's not in the cylinders, the walls look pretty good and all the pistons move when I rotate the flywheel.

Another thing........now that I have rotated it around a little bit( probably 180 deg.), I can only move it about 45 deg (either way).
 
My question would be, does it move almost normal between solid stops? If so I would quess a broken rod. Anyway from here the powerhead needs to be disassembled. Sorry for your bad luck. Were you using premix fuel?
 
is yours a late 85 140 or early? late were looper small bore early were cross-flow. Will it rotate a complete circle and will all 4 pistons move with the crank? it could have a broken main crank ring.  

GMC no the only mains that are rollers are the 2 end caps. the mid area between the cylinders are crank rings.glad someone likes an I/O. O/B all the way. Hate the one I/O i have in my 250 Sea Ray.
 
Well, the power head is sitting on my workbench. I'll start pulling it down to see what the problem is and keep you informed. Iv'e never had one apart so if you guys with experience have any tips or pointers, I would apreciate hearing them.

Skools, From the research I did on the motor when I first got it, I came to the conclusion it was a looper. I caould post the numbers if that would help.

Sorry, I should have started this thread under repairs.
 
are the pistons flat top pistons?
do they look like this?
24110-Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-Pistons.jpg


or do they look like this?
24410-Johnson-Outboard-Pistons.jpg
 
Skools,

They are flat top pistons.

BTW I am running my VRO still. My old pump crapped out a couple of years ago and made the call to put on a brand new latest generation fuel pump. If and when I get this motor fixed, I will premix my fuel and monitor the oil consumtion in my oil tank to make sure it's using oil.


For you O/I guys. My buddy and I have a running joke about I/O vs outboard. When he found out I had to get towed the other day he said, " See, you need one of those big engine boxes to keep an eye on your tow vehichle." Nice buddy huh :D
 
Flat tops are loopers and it should be a 3.500" bore motor. If you have to bore it just bore to a big bore piston. works out great. I've got an 85 i bored to a 1988 up big bore 3.6875" just have to use 1988 up head gaskets.. it basically makes your motor a late model power head. They oiled better than the old 3.500 did. Have you opened the block yet? I have one torn all the way down right now. It's an 1988 Evinrude 140. Has a cracked sleeve. ???
 
Thanks Skools,

I'll let ya'll know what I find, probably tonight. I'm hoping I don't have to go through all that, but then again, I don't have any experience with these things. With that said..............................I aint scared either.


What do you think it would cost me to bore it out and all the other stuff that goes along with a rebuild?
 
I just came in for the night (11:55 pm). I have the carbs and intake off. I still can't spot anything looking up into the crankcase. It's very hard to pinpoint the area that the "noise" is coming from. I could be convinced it's coming from the center bearing on the crank, is this the crank ring you were refering to? I thought at one point it was the top crankshaft bearing, so I pulled that, no such luck >:(

I left my manual at work again today, so I wasn't sure what all had to be removed to seperate the block.
 
I got the crankcase off this afternoon. I found the problem, the lower crank bearing. It looks like the seal in the lower bearing housing was letting water in and corroded the bearing, it was pretty pitted. Anyway the bearing and cage was toast.

Here's my thoughts, what do you think. Replace the bearing and gaskets, run a hone through the cylinders lightly and install a new set of rings to freshi'n up the compression a little. Last compression test was 115, 135, 135 and 125.
 
here is a good site to get parts from. they have about everything you need. i would lightly ball hone the cylinders and either buy new rings or cleanthe old ones in laquer thinner and clean behind them which you will have to do anyway and put it back together with the old cleanedones. just put the ringsbackon the piston they came from. i did that to a 225 and the compression before was 65 to 70 on most and 25 to 30 others. cleaned and got the carbon outof the ring grooves in the pistons lightly hones with a (ball home required) and put back together checked compression had 90 to 92 on all 6 cylinders. i was right on the books factory specs.


http://www.powerheadkit.com/Looper V4 parts.htm

You will need Gel Seal to seal the crank case back together or can buy 1211 Crank case bond. 1211 is stronger usually used in high hp high compression jet ski race motors but works great on outboards. in place of J/E assembly lub just use Marvil Mystery Oil as assembly lub. will burn away after motor warms up and is great break in oil.

Here's the 1211 Bond avail on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1211...hZ002QQitemZ4650208426QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

1211sil.jpg



Gel Seal is avail on the link for parts above. Gel Seal has a shelf life. 1211 Bond doesn't
 
If your cylinders aren't tapered, there is no reason to bore it.  You may have to take it to a machine shop to verify this.  If you're lucky, they wont even charge you.  A ball hone can be had for >$30 and can be run with a hand drill.  Ball hones are harder to make mistakes with than conventional stone type hones.  Don't cheat yourself and reuse the rings, buy new ones.  A pitted bearing is usually caused by fatigue.  Rolling element bearings have a very finite fatigue life, the rollers are moving around and each time they pass over a surface, it goes into compression and then relaxes.  Eventually, the surface will become brittle and flake away.  This type of wear is called spalling.  When everything is back together, break it in like a new motor.

Aviation Form-a-Gasket works great as a sealant between crankcase halves but is difficult to disassemble. Permatex #2 will work. Permatex MotoSeal for motorcycles will also work great. There are also 2 MotoSeals, get the more permanent one. It's white while the less permanent MotoSeal is gray.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top