Painting my Deck

JKDOBE07

Member
Hey All,

Spring has finally arrived up here in the North and I am putting toegether my list of things to do for my V. One of my projects is painting the deck insid ethe v. Any suggestions as far as type or brand of paint?? Floor is the grey color and needs a spruce-up..Thanks in advance....

Mark
 
I havent used it myself yet but from what I have read about on here I think the product most commonly used is Durabak paint http://www.durabakcompany.com/marine.htm

Do a search on this site for durabak and you will find all sorts of guys talking about it. I think I just recently read a post by Macojoe where he even said how much he had to buy to do it. Also if I remember there was some debate about it being a little tough on bare feet but it doesnt seem to stop most people.
 
Slightly off-topic

JKD I can't really recommend a deck paint but I am planning to stain my deck on the house and my dock. Deck on house is 8' x26' roughly 208 sq ft. The fixed portion of the dock is 10' x 30' with 6' x 16' down-ramp and 16' x 16' floating section, total sq ft is roughly 650'.

After years of frustration using "Thompson water-seal" (clear) I have decided to do it right. Thompson's works great.....for about a month, then the water soaks in, wood turns gray and mold and mildew begin thier feast. What I found when I started looking is the mold and mildew need something to eat. That something is the OIL in an oil based stain. Most of the oil based stains and sealers on the market add in anti - mold/mildew chemicals which gradually wash away with rain and snow-melt. I'm looking at going with either a water-based product such as Wolman's Rain Coat w/toner or Defy epoxied fortified. Neither of these are oil based and in tests they were in the top 5 for preventing graying, mold and mildew and water repelency. I would have to order Defy on-line I'm thinking I'll go with the Wolmans since I can pick it up locally. I'm going to go with a semi-transparent that shows the wood grain but want to add just a touch of color.

Anyway, I thought I just share that little tid-bit since 'tis the season to refinish those gray and moldy decks and docks.

Good luck on your painting project JKD.
 
I havent used it myself yet but from what I have read about on here I think the product most commonly used is Durabak paint http://www.durabakcompany.com/marine.htm

Do a search on this site for durabak and you will find all sorts of guys talking about it. I think I just recently read a post by Macojoe where he even said how much he had to buy to do it. Also if I remember there was some debate about it being a little tough on bare feet but it doesnt seem to stop most people.

I sprayed a deck with dark gray Diztler Deltron and found you could slide ice chests and drop tanks on it for years without a problem. It is a urethane automotive paint and fairly reasonable, but be careful because the fumes are really bad. Respirators are a must or you'll end up at the hospital or worse.
 
I've painted mine 3 times & it needs it again. have todo it about every 3 to 4 years. first time i used glidden porch paint. and it worked ok for the first year or two then failed rapidly. next time i used petit bright side polyurethane. it did not last at all, maybe one year and then began to peel off. next time i went back to the porch paint and its on its fourth year. skools (i think) said he has used garage floor paint with good results.

the secret to good paint is good prep. i think the petit failed because i did s sloppy job in sanding and cleaning the old surface. durabak is good stuff, but i think it is a little to aggressive for bare feet and i've heard it holds heat.
 
Look for kiwi grip. if you are going with a one-part paint thats is probably your best bet. 2 part epoxies are the best rout to take with broadcasted rubber pellets. You wont see any life out of any paint without proper surface preparation. If you use two part you have to remove all existing one part coatings (pettit easypoxy, brightside, etc..) The solvent/catalyst within the two part will often eat up the single part component. If you wanted it to be done right, sand your entire deck with an 80grit orbital sander removing the gloss or any residue from the deck. even after 20 years of wear and tear there can still be traces of the mold release agent within the gel coat which will not allow subsequent coats of paint to adhere. After sanding and prior to initial coating, wash the substrate with some tsp, trisodium phosphate and water, scrub really good and rinse very good. I would solvent whipe with acetone. if you dont think you sanded very well i would use something stronger, because acetone flashes to rapidly not allowing wax relases/residue to be removed. If you are going two part i would most def. apply a high build primer/barrier coat. after you have applied the initial primer, take your ruber pellets (anti slip additive) and broadcast them on top of your high build primer while wet. While still tacky (thumb print test - leaves a thumbprint but does not come off on your thumb) apply your first coat of two part urethane (Pitthane ultra, interlux perfection, awlgrip etc...). Count on 2-3 coats but this stuff goes a long way. If recoating has not been done while tacky it shall be abraded with 120 -220 sandpaper, and solvent whiped. If done correctly this will last a good 15 years. I love the pitthane ultra, i used it on the outside and have hit it with the anhor and couldnt tell. When using a 2 part epoxy/urthane you HAVE to wear a respirator.

Your other bet is the kiwigrip which is a single part but i have heard extremely good things about it. Its gloss retention is far superior to the durabak, and is easier on the feet. However the same surface preparation shall be performed. Nothing will ever adhere to gelcoat or anything else unless it is sanded. No such thing as overkill in surface preparation. the difference in a proffesional painter and a novice is 10% skill and 90% surface prep. Alot of people blame coating failure on the paint when it is 90% of the time a result of poor surface prep.

Sorry to ramble on but i couldnt imgagine having to repaint my deck every 3 years. Same thing as measure twice cut once. Whipe and sand 2k times and paint once.

A good thing to do once you have chosen a paint is contact manufact. and ask for thier product data sheet. Or ask for several manuf's data sheets and compare.

Good luck,

Ben,
Proffesional Industrial Marine Coatings Engineer Northrup Grumman - and yes i hate it
 
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thanks for all of the inputy on both the house paint and boat paint. maybe i should have clarified, but I am looking to paint the deck on the boat. Like I said I have a 1986 V20 fisherman. Thanks

mark
 
I used Behr 1 Part Epoxy Garage floor paint found at Home Depot for around $25 and I added some none slip grit stuff. Its has held up great and the only places it has come off is like in the lips of hatches that get slamed from time to time. We took palm sanders and gave it a good sanding. We then vacumed the boaut out real good then wiped down the floor with mineral spirits or maybe paint thinner. We only mixed about half of the can with the non slip and used the other to paint the storage compartments and the under side of the access hatches. The toughest thing to do is to get the right mix of non slip without adding too much making it like sand papper. We mixed in some and then rolled it out and added more if needed. I think the paint comes as a base white and you can sellect from like 20 different colors. I have used this for the past 7 years and only had to repaint the floor when we replaced a soft spot in the floor. I'm sure there are better products but for the price I feel it holds up very good. Remember not to pick a color that is too dark because it will get hot.
 
Well, I said it was "slightly off-topic" but more like "way off-topic." LOL

Franco, yes, the town of Lexington gives out free docks to residents who market Lexington style BBQ over the internet!! Pretty cool! :hi:

....Don't I wish!
 
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