Plywood?

frayed_knot

frayed_knot

Senior Member
I know I have asked this before, but the search has resulted in nothing.

I need to replace the wood in my fuel tank cover, just like Schools did. I don't seem to have a "local" source for marine grade plywood. Can I use something else. I plan on totally encasing it in glass.

This also brings back up the whole "which resin should I use?" thing again. West Systems resin is $88 gal at West Marine and another $30 for hardener. I can go to Lowes and pickup a gallon of Elmers (poly?) resin with hardener for $35. I would think poly would be just fine and last another 20 years if done right. Any input?
 
There is a grade of plywood used for form buliding, how available it is I don't know. It used to be distinguished by the outer edge being painted a burnt orange color. We have used this plywood for replacing casting decks on boats and on the ramp to the dock. One side is usually waxed heavily so as to be able to release from the poured concrete. The last time I bought it was a couple of years ago at Lowes and Homedepot. The glue in this plywood is about as good as marine grade. If you find it and use it be sure to wipe or sand off the wax before applying the resin.
 
I think the poly resin will be fine. Don't be tempted to use the pressure treated plywood. It may not rot but it will seperate and be spongey feeling. I made that mistake replacing the floor in my trihull. :P
 
I have used exterior ply befor and its fine, Just make sure what ever you use is for exterior!!
Coat ply with resin to seal it and you good to go!!

I am sure that poly is fine.
 
Go to Lowes and look for a good sheet of A/C-X, preferably douglas fir. Wellcraft did it with poly the first time, so it should work the second time as well.
 
get this from Lowes will soak up the resin and stronger than the original. don't use exterior grade. This is the plywood you want. see below.

3/4 BIRCH 7 PLY LOWES CABINET
Item # 12271 $42.95


OR


3/4" OAK 7 PLY LOWES CLASSIC
Item # 16422 $42.95
 
You can use end-grain balsa if you can get it.  Your cover will be nice and light. Short of marine ply, I believe ACX would be the next best (I think that's what it's called). It has no knots like marine ply, but it doesn't have waterproof glue. If you encapsulate it, that shouldn't be an issue. West Marine sells boater's resin (polyester) for not very expensive.
 
hey Fray do you want me to get you a gallon of resin from Parker? you don't want that crap called boat yard resin it won't hold up. Last gallon of builders resin i bought from Parker was either $13 or $15 with MEPK Hardner.
 
Thanks a-lot fellas, just what I was looking for. Skools, who do you talk to at Parker? Do you just drive up and ask for a gal of Poly? I can get it, but I don't want to look like the village idiot (it's hard not to when you look like me) pulling up and requesting stuff like it's a McDonald's. ;D Hey, if'n your in the area sometime soon, go ahead an git me a gallon. Let me know, Thanks a ton.
 
i ask my neighbor he brings it home from work so i get it at his cost. I hope to be in EI this weekend. maybe we could meet up this weekend. I'll tell Eric to go ahead and get me a gallon.
 
I just did all of my floor hatch covers and just used 3/4 ext. plywood. I have done several before and have found if you cut the wood with around a 35% to 45% angle on the edge it is much easier making the transition from the wood to the bottom of the hatch with your fiberglass. Not sure if its the best way to do dthe job but I have had good success doing it this way.
 
Skools Out said:
i ask my neighbor he brings it home from work so i get it at his cost. I hope to be in EI this weekend. maybe we could meet up this weekend. I'll tell Eric to go ahead and get me a gallon.
Click to expand...
Sounds good skools, thanks! I'll send you a PM with my phone #.
 
Plywood 101 as I understand it if interested. If its not a structural issue but is visible use A/C exterior fir. One side has all knot holes patched and is the finished side(football shaped inserts). One side is not patched but is C grade, some knot holes but not patched. All the layers in between are not patched and are either C or X grade. All the glue for all layers is water-resistant, usually plastic resin glue. Marine plywood uses the same glue, just all layers are A, patched, so its stronger. Another option for when you need a good finish is MDO plywood or painter board- used to make signs out of because its so smooth(get only one sided).It has a resin inpregnated surface so looks good and while waterresistant should be glassed and epoxied as well. Also note that epoxy won't stick to pressure treated too good.
 
Get the marine grade ply. It is solid and usually 5 ply...OR a Virola. It's good too. For new work polyester resin is fine. No need to colth the bottom side but do roll it out with some resin. Use mat and cloth in alternate applications on the top. You can dye to match when ya mix it. Have fun and don't breath the fumes.
 
I should think so. I will likely get the rest of the materials next weekend and get working on her the following week. I have this coming Friday off, and want to make sure I can get on the water, don't want to go fishing with a big gaping hole in the deck ;)
 
if ya think of any other items i'll ask Eric if they use them and the price for ya. if you need glass i have 2000 yards of glass by the way. ;D
 
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