Question about Kwik poly

Striper80

Striper80

Senior Member
I have an 82 Grady White Tarpon(tournament) 190. I pulled the 89 110 V4 to put my 96 Johnson on to test it out. When I removed it I decided to pull the aluminum trim and take a look at the transom. I wasn't happy to see that it was a wet and seemed to be rotten. I saw someone on here mentioned using quick poly on a transom before. I was just wondering if they dried it out first? My newer motor is a long shaft so I have to use a jack plate so it's going to have more leverage on the transom. When I tilted the original motor up all the way and jumped up and down it didn't flex but now I'm a little worried. I was thinking of trying the quick poly and putting an 1/8" thick aluminum angle over it to re-enforce it.
 
It actually WON'T have any more leverage on the transom from the longer shaft... tho the set back of the jack plate would add a little.....

Yes I would think the wood would have to be dry to be able to soak anything into it
 
You need to dry the wood out as best you can, then get a drill bit and drill a few holes in the middle of it to let the epoxy soak in and penetrate the wood. I've done this on rotted transoms before, and was surprised at how stout they were afterwards. Open it up and put a halogen light next to it for a few days to dry it out some, then do the kwik poly to it.
 
Striper80 said:
Thanks that's what I'll do. How much did you have to use to do it?
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It all depends on how rotted or dry the wood is. The two 1 gallon jug kit isn't priced that bad, and should more than do the job. Just keep it cool after you open it, or else it will kick off in the container. Also keep in mind you have very little working time with kwik poly once it is combined in a container for use. So don't mix it until your ready to apply it.
 
I ordered the 2 qt kit earlier today to start. I'm going to cut the rest of the cap off and hit it with an infrared heat lamp for a little while.
I was wondering if you used any filler to fill tge 1/4" holes or you just used the straight kwik poly?
 
I just use the kwik poly. It is STRONG stuff. I would also reccomend some rubber gloves as this stuff will get into your fingers as well as it soaks into wood.
 
I would suggest drilling a few drain holes at the bottom if the transom... Any pooled water can drain there.... When pouring the resin you can tape the holes or plug w wood pegs when/if the resin reaches the holes.
 
Hopefully ill get to start this weekend. I'm going to drill a few holes into the core from the outside to see how far down the core is wet. From tapping it doesn't seem like its wet below about halfway between the upper and lower mounting bolts. Ill know for sure once I drill it. Once I get the core straightened out I'm going to glass the top in with some 1708 and Gelcoat it.
 
Never heard of Kwik Poly, but I have used GitRot and it worked good. Gitrot soaks into rotten wood and hardens it back up. Don't know how strong it would make it. The transom was rotten on my V when I bought it, cut it out from the inside and replaced it all. Hope the kwikpoly works well for you. Let us know!
 
If its wewt up top its going to be wet at bottom!! Do as said drill a few holes in the bottom and let drain before doing, then wet some golf t's with the resin an hammer them it when dry cut iff and top with resin and your done
 
cfelton said:
Never heard of Kwik Poly, but I have used GitRot and it worked good. Gitrot soaks into rotten wood and hardens it back up. Don't know how strong it would make it. The transom was rotten on my V when I bought it, cut it out from the inside and replaced it all. Hope the kwikpoly works well for you. Let us know!
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I've used both, and KWIK POLY wins hands down. It costs a fraction as much, soaks into the wood ALOT deeper, and hardens up alot better.
 
I've used git rot in the past and thrilled with the results. It was also ridiculously expensive compared to the kwik poly. I was hoping to get it before the weekend but unfortunately I didn't. Hopefully I'll get to cut into the transom a little this weekend. I'm itching to get on the water.
 
I cut the cap off today. The wood was wet across the top and a bit rotten but not as bad as I was expecting. I drilled a number of holes down in different areas and I found the transom was moist but nowhere near as wet as I was expecting. I found that when I drilled down it took about 2" before I hit something real solid. Right now I have the infrared lamp on it drying it out.
 
I suggest that you get an auger bit and a chisel and remove all the rotten stuff... then drill lots of smaller holes deep into the good wood and refill with a pourable transom product
 
I was thinking about that, but before I do any chiseling or drilling I'm going to dry it out and assess the damage.
I'm stuck right now. I bought this boat to hang my 130 on then the engine on it turned to be good but the transom was messed up. In the mean time I got a smoking good deal on my 22WA. Now I've got 2 boats and 3 engines. The kicker is that a few V20s needing repower have come up for sale which is what I wanted all along, go figure.
On it's dried out ill drill it and test out the kwik poly and go from there.
 
I painted the top of the transom with the kwik poly today and it solidified it right away. Next step will be to drill down through the core and pour it down. So far I'm happy with the results. Dried quick and hard.
 
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