Refinish Teak and Repair Rod Boxes

Geekie1

Junior Member
This is my V20 about a week ago at Sea Isle City NJ after fishing. Caught alot of short flounder. I managed to get flounder slime on some of the teak below.


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This is the result of the repair and refinishing of the rod boxes. Both the port and starboard rod boxes were cracked and broken so I reinforced the back sides with 6 OZ fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin. I sprayed the front sides of the boxes with Interlux Brightsides off-white polyurethane which matched the gel coat pretty well. The original color of the boxes was the brownish orange floor color.


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I still have some teak to refinish at the helm and the cabin hatch deck slides.


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The cabin door was coming apart at the glue joints. I re-glued them using Titebond 3 which is totally waterproof. I was going to re-glue them using Gorilla glue, but decided against it because gorilla glue foams and doesn't take finish well without alot of sanding. The finish I used on the teak is Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak. Actually the cabin door was the first repair refinish job I did and the finished door was done 3 years ago with no current signs of deterioration!!


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This is the bilge door in the stern. When I got the V20 the center of the door was delaminating so I replaced the center with a piece of marine teak plywood I got from a marine wood supplier in Marathon Florida. Dont ask what it cost!!


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This is the cabin door after gluing and before refinishing.


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The bimini cloth is new this year and I am replacing the rear bimini straps with stainless steel rod and the main bow with stainless steel. Other projects are:

1. Move batteries out of the bilge to an above floor level location. The location is below the stern hatch boxes to port and starboard of the engine well.

2. Rewire the entire boat a little at a time. When I had the rod boxes out I ran new #8 wire from the deep cycle battery to the cabin. I intend to put in new terminal and breaker boxes in a more accessible location in the cabin.

3. Redo the dash and add voltmeters for the starting and the deep cycle battery.

4. Add another fuel gauge for my backup fuel tank. I have 2 fuel tanks. The normal 60 gallon and a second 24 gallon backup tank which lives in the live well bay. The Wellcraft live well turned out to be a dead well which slopped water all over the floor when in rougher water. The reason for the backup tank is the 60 gallon tank was leaking so I added the 24 gallon until I could fix or replace the 60. Hence, now I have about a 240 mile range. Baltimore canyon here I come.

Geek
 
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What an awsome job you're doing! It looks like a lot of you is going into this project! Want to sell when you're done? Just kidding! I know how you feel..Great job, send more pics!!!!:beer:
 
Nice job on the rod boxes!! Wanna do mine?? Where abouts in Sea Isle are ya? I'm not too far... Oh well out to burn gas & drown bait....
 
That was a transient slip at Larsens in SIC I had for a week. I keep the V at my house near Dennisville NJ in Cape May County and launch at the nearest ramp to where the bite is on. Off season the V is in my driveway in Doylestown PA. Generally I like three ramps in South Jersey. 54th Street in Avalon which gives me close access to the Ocean at Townsends Inlet, Cape May free ramp for Ocean access off Cape May, and Longreach on the Maurice River for access to the Delaware Bay. Those three are good wide ramps for launching solo, which is what I do often.

In order to make solo launching and hauling more practical, I have tried to make my trailer more friendly by adding a power winch, replaced all rollers, replaced all brake assemblies, new coupler, etc. etc. Some of the trailer modifications I have in mind are walkways on the front of the trailer frame, and replaceing the rest of the lights with led lights. I have reasoned that replacing most of the functional parts with new will give me a better chance of not having a failure at the ramp. The one modification to the trailer I consider the most successful was mounting a Group 27 deep cycle battery on the trailer tongue in a battery box to power the winch rather using my truck battery to operate the winch. This has worked very well. I get about 3 launches and hauls out of one charge. For backup, I have a set of 20' 4 gauge jumper cables in case I need to use the truck battery. I will post a picture of my winch battery setup when I get back down to Cape May next week. (Haven't photographed it!)

Other off season projects are to non skid paint the floor, paint the engine leg. I had an auto paint dealer computer match the Yamaha paint color in a urethane auto paint.

Geek
 
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Looks great Geekie. I like the look of your Cetol. I love the stuff. However, I have been using the original formula, and it has a bit more of an orangeish cast to it than the natural teak formula you are using.
 
Hi Nipper,

I tried Cetol Marine Light which is the more orange color you are referring to on another boat project I had going. I preferred the natural teak color which is a relatively new product. Another really good teak finish is Bristol Yacht finishes. However Bristol finishes are about twice the price of Cetol. The durability of Cetol, when applied correctly, seems to be very good. As I mentioned, the ongoing V refinish project is in its third year and shows little reason to even touch up as yet.

Geek
 
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