Geekie1
Junior Member
This is my V20 about a week ago at Sea Isle City NJ after fishing. Caught alot of short flounder. I managed to get flounder slime on some of the teak below.
This is the result of the repair and refinishing of the rod boxes. Both the port and starboard rod boxes were cracked and broken so I reinforced the back sides with 6 OZ fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin. I sprayed the front sides of the boxes with Interlux Brightsides off-white polyurethane which matched the gel coat pretty well. The original color of the boxes was the brownish orange floor color.
I still have some teak to refinish at the helm and the cabin hatch deck slides.
The cabin door was coming apart at the glue joints. I re-glued them using Titebond 3 which is totally waterproof. I was going to re-glue them using Gorilla glue, but decided against it because gorilla glue foams and doesn't take finish well without alot of sanding. The finish I used on the teak is Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak. Actually the cabin door was the first repair refinish job I did and the finished door was done 3 years ago with no current signs of deterioration!!
This is the bilge door in the stern. When I got the V20 the center of the door was delaminating so I replaced the center with a piece of marine teak plywood I got from a marine wood supplier in Marathon Florida. Dont ask what it cost!!
This is the cabin door after gluing and before refinishing.
The bimini cloth is new this year and I am replacing the rear bimini straps with stainless steel rod and the main bow with stainless steel. Other projects are:
1. Move batteries out of the bilge to an above floor level location. The location is below the stern hatch boxes to port and starboard of the engine well.
2. Rewire the entire boat a little at a time. When I had the rod boxes out I ran new #8 wire from the deep cycle battery to the cabin. I intend to put in new terminal and breaker boxes in a more accessible location in the cabin.
3. Redo the dash and add voltmeters for the starting and the deep cycle battery.
4. Add another fuel gauge for my backup fuel tank. I have 2 fuel tanks. The normal 60 gallon and a second 24 gallon backup tank which lives in the live well bay. The Wellcraft live well turned out to be a dead well which slopped water all over the floor when in rougher water. The reason for the backup tank is the 60 gallon tank was leaking so I added the 24 gallon until I could fix or replace the 60. Hence, now I have about a 240 mile range. Baltimore canyon here I come.
Geek

This is the result of the repair and refinishing of the rod boxes. Both the port and starboard rod boxes were cracked and broken so I reinforced the back sides with 6 OZ fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin. I sprayed the front sides of the boxes with Interlux Brightsides off-white polyurethane which matched the gel coat pretty well. The original color of the boxes was the brownish orange floor color.

I still have some teak to refinish at the helm and the cabin hatch deck slides.

The cabin door was coming apart at the glue joints. I re-glued them using Titebond 3 which is totally waterproof. I was going to re-glue them using Gorilla glue, but decided against it because gorilla glue foams and doesn't take finish well without alot of sanding. The finish I used on the teak is Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak. Actually the cabin door was the first repair refinish job I did and the finished door was done 3 years ago with no current signs of deterioration!!

This is the bilge door in the stern. When I got the V20 the center of the door was delaminating so I replaced the center with a piece of marine teak plywood I got from a marine wood supplier in Marathon Florida. Dont ask what it cost!!

This is the cabin door after gluing and before refinishing.

The bimini cloth is new this year and I am replacing the rear bimini straps with stainless steel rod and the main bow with stainless steel. Other projects are:
1. Move batteries out of the bilge to an above floor level location. The location is below the stern hatch boxes to port and starboard of the engine well.
2. Rewire the entire boat a little at a time. When I had the rod boxes out I ran new #8 wire from the deep cycle battery to the cabin. I intend to put in new terminal and breaker boxes in a more accessible location in the cabin.
3. Redo the dash and add voltmeters for the starting and the deep cycle battery.
4. Add another fuel gauge for my backup fuel tank. I have 2 fuel tanks. The normal 60 gallon and a second 24 gallon backup tank which lives in the live well bay. The Wellcraft live well turned out to be a dead well which slopped water all over the floor when in rougher water. The reason for the backup tank is the 60 gallon tank was leaking so I added the 24 gallon until I could fix or replace the 60. Hence, now I have about a 240 mile range. Baltimore canyon here I come.
Geek
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