Spare, Ferm, Skools, all you outboard motor guys..question

As yall know Ive talked about repowering the 18 but its not in the budget. I know Im on borrowed time with the old Force.

So heres the deal. Ive done basic repairs on most all major outboards over the years but no real teardowns and rebuilds. Ive built most any other kind of engines however, 4 cylinders, lawn mowers, motorcycles, and a few V8's including the Vortec in my newly aquired Tahoe.

Outboards have always scared me a little, I guess mostly because Ive had a few in the past with ignition or electronics issues (Ppacks, stators, etc..) that Ive had trouble diagnosing due to not having the equipment.

Ive really got my heart set on one of the Merc. Black max in 150 or 175 due to their performance, simplicity and from what Ive heard ease to get parts for and reasonable to buy parts for. Is this correct?

The 18 is rated for a 150 but 1) I know the weight difference between the 150&175 is nill. 2) the max capacity laws are NOT enforced around here. Ive been checked by MP and CG here with an overpowered vessel and no issues. 3) After running the poorly powered FORCE for so long I wanna be able to hammer down and get some GRUNT. (Im also running a jackplate). I plan on keeping the 18 forever as I have it setup perfect and its a solid dependable boat for what I do...it gets the job done well.

I also get a hard on when I hear the Merc BM idleing and sounding like a pissed off dragster. :sun:

So I guess my question is this: If I can build a truck engine then it shouldnt be that difficult with a manual for me to do a outboard overhaul?

Im wondering if I run across one for reasonable if I can make it a long term engine regardless of what I may need to do to it?

Discuss:
 
Stinks a motor is a motor they all need 3 things to run CFF = Compression , Fire , Fuel if you have those 3 it will run. The insides all look a like too except the bearings in outboards are cage and roller bearings unlike the ones in you car motors. otherwise same basic rebuild.
 
Yep. What School Said. It isn't any more demanding than any other. IMO it is easier to work on an outboard, my big belly doesn't get in the way.. If you are sure you need to rebuild it take it all down and send the block off to a competent machine shop. They can verify the bore and tell you just what you need. I have an old Merc 2.4L 200 with chrome bore. Some people don't like the chrome bore motors but they are tough as a cut nail and typically do not require anything more than rings to get them back up and running. If the chrome ever does go bad, most just go with a steel sleeve because having the bores re-chromed cost a lot. The 150 is a 2.0L and the 175/200 can be 2.4L or 2.5L in the BM.

When in doubt just remember it will only go back together one way right.
 
I'm like you, Stink...hearin' those things run is a rush...Pissed off dragster is right...only problem I know about that motor is a plastic gear in the auto-oiler is prone to failure...pre-mix the oil in one and I think it'll be the way to go...and w/a 175, go you will!!...:sun:
 
Thanks guys..I figured it couldnt be that difficult..just take my time and do it right. I know a top notch machinist as well. He has done all my engine blocks/ heads over the years.


I know about the gear as well. I wont own a motor thats not under a factory warranty with auto mix. Mix it in the tank and be done with it.

Thanks again..anymore input is welcome for sure!


Also since my FORCE is a 96' the controls will fit I think? They have merc conectors...


Reel, I remember wasnt it you that sold a BM when you got the Honda? I remember wishing I could have bought it baaaaad.

Got a buddy here with a 150 Rude on a 18 and we said it will run low 50's. I bet I can push 60 hard with a BM 175!!

Not that I need to go that fast but running from weather sure wouldnt be as stressful like it is now loping along at 34
 
Just a heads up, if you do go over recommended H.P.- You will have some serious issues with your insurance if you ever have to file a claim.......

Speakin of puttin sleeves in......I have a 175 Johnson Oceanrunner that needs one. Engine has 6-700hrs on it but needs either boring or sleeves/piston job. Aside from that, engine/lower unit well maintained and in fantastic shape - $500 will take it
 
I know about the gear as well. I wont own a motor thats not under a factory warranty with auto mix. Mix it in the tank and be done with it.




Reel, I remember wasnt it you that sold a BM when you got the Honda? I remember wishing I could have bought it baaaaad.

Got a buddy here with a 150 Rude on a 18 and we said it will run low 50's. I bet I can push 60 hard with a BM 175!!

Not that I need to go that fast but running from weather sure wouldnt be as stressful like it is now loping along at 34

Glad you know bout it...mine was a 150 Rude...I can see that motor pushin' an 18 to 50+...STRONG from bottom of range to top!!...

And sometimes it ain't that you run it at 50-60 mph...it's that you CAN when you want to :sun:

Can't figure out your reference "BM"...?...Bad Mammerjammer?...LOL!!...
 
A 150 can be either a 2.0L, 2.4L, or 2.5L. The 2.0L 135/150's are the ones that sound like a pissed off dragster when they idle. The 2.5L is a solid performer, but from my experience is a THIRSTY pig of an engine. I had one of the 2.5L MERCURY 150 XRI's(same engine as a 175 carbed engine but was a fuel injected performance model) on my flats boat a few years back, and it would flat out haul A$$ when you got on it. I hit 60 a few times with it on there. The downside was it burned about 17GPH at WOT, BUT burned 12 GPH at 3800-4000 cruising. I've got an old 81 150 2.0L on an old bass boat and that thing sounds WICKED, but only burns 4GPH at a 3800 RPM cruise. If you could find an old 2.4L 175 though, that would be teh ticket. It will most likely be a chrome bore engine, but you can have them slleeved with steel sleeves if needs be. Check screamandfly as they LIKE there MERCS over there. And I believe your controls will work, but you'll probably have to change your tach out as MERCS are 12 poles and most FORCE engines are 20 pole.
 
stink, the biggest problem i've had in working on outboards is corrosion. the mechanics are pretty straight forward(on carbed ones). timing issues can be hard to get straight, but the innards aren't bad. the ones that are ran in salt are a collection of bolts waiting to be broke off. mercs do seen to be easier. also big shrimpin is an excellent parts source.
 
Ferm, your right the 150 is made in different liter configurations. I like the 150 2.0L and all the 2.4L because they are light. Ditch the oil infection as mentioned, then you won't be looking for a place to install the remote oil tank. The electronics and link and sink seem like smoke and mirror stuff initially, buy a manual and you realize it is not that bad. On a carbed motor the only part that cannot be thouroughly tested with a volt/ohm meter is the switch boxes. Aside from that the Stator, Trigger, Coils, Rectifier/Regulator, Spark plugs, maybe an idle stabilizer box (which I would discard) are easily tested and that is the entire ignition/charging system on a carbed Merc V-6. When you remove the cowl it may look like speghetti but all the wires are color coded, it is real easy.
 
I had the 175 2.4 black max and it was all i needed for my 23 footer, pushed it to low 30's and would curz all day at 27mph and real easy on the gas!
BS has in now and is going to put it on his 23 seacraft when he gets the transom done.
I know he also has another 175 2.4 block that runs? but just the block that I know of, if you want me to ask him about it?
 
stink, i 've got a 200 on a stand in the back yard you could field test for me...

DSCF0481-1.jpg
 
A 200 on an 18 WELLCRAFT should flat out HAUL A$$. I bet the chine walk would give you one heck of a pucker factor at speed. Not to mention how fast them 200 2.5 MERC's respond. I still think a regular 2.0L 150 would be ideal, and be good on fuel.
 
i had a buddy that had a 175 on a 17 hydrasport kevlar cc. he only knew 1 speed, wot. i only went with him once. it is hairy enough to be the driver, but to be a passenger on the seat ahead of the console, no way. its like sitting on the hood of your car and doing 75 on the interstate.
 
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