Stringer wood

Blu_Lunch

Blu_Lunch

Junior Member
Today I went to West Marine and bought all the materials from my V-17 to replace the stringers and deck I am going to start laying glass next weekend. What type of wood should I use for the stringers, I need to replace the entire center stringer and about 5 feet of the side stringers. The old stringers look like pine kid you not.
 
Not an expert by any means either, but when I did some stringer and floor work on my old 1972 Speedliner 17' boat I used 3/4" marine plywood. It was hard to find in my area of the country, and expensive.
 
I think Wellcraft used plywood for the stringers. I would use. 3/4" Marine Tech PT but Kiln Dried After Treatment or even untreated. You can use 3/4" BC FIR as a cheaper alternative. I would stay away from the tropical hardwoods like ipe and mahogony unless you are building a very nice wood deck. They are strong but cost prohibitive and I believe a little too stiff for a backbone in a fiberglass boat. Besides if it has a center stringer, you will need a piece that is at least 12" wide. That may be a tall order ($$$) in the hardwoods. Then there are composites. More money. If you need longer than an 8' run you make a nice scarf joint in the plywood and reinforce with glass.
What glass did you buy? and what is your layup schedule?
 
reel, they make a foam you can pour in it, cut the top off at the level you want and lay a glass strip over to seal. just get the rotten wod out and use the remaining glass as a mold.
 
Thanks for the reply's I have all the rotten wood out and sanded all the glass. When we cut old wood out I left about 2 inches of each stringer glass so the new ones would sit and stand there while we glass it in. In plan on coating each new piece in West 105 at least 2 coats and would it advisable to put some adhesive on the bottom of the new wood or not? The factory build had just a single layer of 24 oz woven to hold the stringer and in spots the was none at all for 2 feet or so just bare wood. This weekend found the transom is shot we all ready completely got the old wet wood out and I ordered 12 gallons of Seacast today for it
 
RidgeRunner said:
I think Wellcraft used plywood for the stringers. I would use. 3/4" Marine Tech PT but Kiln Dried After Treatment or even untreated. You can use 3/4" BC FIR as a cheaper alternative. I would stay away from the tropical hardwoods like ipe and mahogony unless you are building a very nice wood deck. They are strong but cost prohibitive and I believe a little too stiff for a backbone in a fiberglass boat. Besides if it has a center stringer, you will need a piece that is at least 12" wide. That may be a tall order ($$$) in the hardwoods. Then there are composites. More money. If you need longer than an 8' run you make a nice scarf joint in the plywood and reinforce with glass.
What glass did you buy? and what is your layup schedule?
Click to expand...
I bought West Systems 105 and 206 the stringer was just plain lumber I swear it is pine it was really cheap wood the deck was 4 by 4 plywood squares.
 
Stringer Wood

Blu Lunch:

Did you pop the top or cut out the deck? I did a search for earlier posts but couldn't find anything. Any photos?


Fitz
 
They could have used pine, it was not a hardwood that is certain. My floor was plywood squares layed in place while the liner was probably still in the mold. The forewardmost plywood bulkhead in my center console was only tabbed in place. They sprayed the bare wood with gelcoat to make it look better to the casual observer. The reason Marine Plywood is recommended by Skool and others is because it is supposed to have less voids in the interior plys, in theory a void is a starting point for osmosis and the beginning of rot. If Wellcraft had sealed their wood better it would probably not need so much work today. I like the idea of epoxy, I just have started to experiment with the stuff. Best of luck.

BTW- I am no expert, just re-built a boat or two that are still around. The plywood is stuff I stock here at the lumber yard for anyone that is local and would like some. It isn't $45/sheet though Skool. More like $60 for 3/4 Marine Tech PT KDAT one side sanded. It can be glassed without a problem even though it is PRESSURE TREATED, due to the fact that it was dried in a kiln after.
 
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Stringer Wood

Thanks for the info Blu Lunch & Schools. Very impressive jobs.

Schools - it appears that you either find and restore classics for a living, or you do that as a serious hobby. What fun that must be.

One question: how did you both cut out the decks? With a rotary saw?


Fitz
 
i do boat repairs and rebuilding plus built a few on the side, i'm actually a data communications speciallist for the state, i cut mine out with a circular saw aka Skill Saw. but currently not working on it i've got 2 in the shop to finish one is a 23 ft deck boat i'm putting stringers cross slats and floor in. the other is a customer boat getting motor work. but ne i have one coming in i'm going to fix a cracked transom where the guy hit something in a lake and tore the motor loose and put a 10 inch crank in the transom.
 
When I cut my gunnel trim out(the 7'ish peice that holds the gunnel rod rack on the F-20) I noticed the plywood squares also.

Just curious if anyone has any idea on why they did this??????? Seems really cheap and bound to fail. I replaced mine with starboard.

My dad's guess is that they got it through some kind of flooring company as left over peices,blanks,templates,etc..
 
ssiredfish said:
When I cut my gunnel trim out(the 7'ish peice that holds the gunnel rod rack on the F-20) I noticed the plywood squares also.

Just curious if anyone has any idea on why they did this??????? Seems really cheap and bound to fail. I replaced mine with starboard.

My dad's guess is that they got it through some kind of flooring company as left over peices,blanks,templates,etc..
Click to expand...


When Willy and I visited Franco several years back, we toured the Pursuit plant...they are turning out some of the finest boats on the market today in their class...and they are using wood squares as described here...done right it is not a sign of cheap manufacturing or an inherant problem...it's how the glass gets laid to it that makes the difference...
 
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