Transom rebuild V20 Jeanne Marie

B

billfish16

Junior Member
Removed the engine with help from a couple of neighbors, one is a landscaper with a mini tractor. I prepped the engine for removal, thought it would take a half hour to transfer it to the engine stand, wrong! The steering rod was rusted seized in the motor bracket. It took over two hours.

Started digging out the rotted wood with a chain saw. Next is removing part of the splash well for better access including inspecting the stringers.

Photos to follow. Uploading photos is a pain in the arse.
 
billfish16 said:
Removed the engine with help from a couple of neighbors, one is a landscaper with a mini tractor. I prepped the engine for removal, thought it would take a half hour to transfer it to the engine stand, wrong! The steering rod was rusted seized in the motor bracket. It took over two hours.

Started digging out the rotted wood with a chain saw. Next is removing part of the splash well for better access including inspecting the stringers.

Photos to follow. Uploading photos is a pain in the arse.
Click to expand...


Had the same issue with the teleflex cable, cut off saw had it out in 2 seconds. figured better to replace than screw with it being 40 yrs old
What year is that hull ? engine?
 
Thanks for the photos Bill. Nice. Ya, sometimes steering linkages are a pain in the arse. When you put her all back together get yourself a "Steersman Nut". It allows you to actually inject grease into your steering cable. Prevents problems like you just had. If you're using her in salt get the Stainless one, if in freshwater the aluminum is fine. Not expensive... less than a large pizza with toppings.

I highly recommend remaking your transom into a 25 inch instead of the 20" you have there... But that will mean you will need a 25" engine or a spacer to convert your 20" into a 25". Just something to think about.
 
good idea to go ahead with the deck & stringer(if needed). I'm sure you thought about cap-off but you get it done faster this way.

Are you reusing/recoring the deck or are you going to plywood down and glass over? Use 1/2 in Exterior AB grade douglas fir aka marine grade plywood. DONT use pressure treated plywood.

Plastic fuel tank?

Definitely get a forward bilge pump in there.

Think of everything while you have it opened up!
 
SkunkBoat said:
good idea to go ahead with the deck & stringer(if needed). I'm sure you thought about cap-off but you get it done faster this way.

Are you reusing/recoring the deck or are you going to plywood down and glass over? Use 1/2 in Exterior AB grade douglas fir aka marine grade plywood. DONT use pressure treated plywood.

Plastic fuel tank?

Definitely get a forward bilge pump in there.

Think of everything while you have it opened up!
Click to expand...

I’m going to use Seacast to replace all the wood in the transom, stingers, bulkheads and keel. I’d like to re-core the deck. Already thought about the forward bilge pump. Thought about moving the 55/60 gal aluminum fuel tank forward to get the stern up a little. Didn’t search this site yet to see if anyone has done it and if there was a benefit worth the trouble.
 
your 82 was before the foamed in tanks?
Bilge passes under tank? PVC pipe or wood & glass?

Tank in good shape?...thats OLD!

I did an aluminum replacement and re-foamed it in.
I think plastic would be better. I have since seen a Moeller 55 that will work.

I would keep the tank aft.
 
SkunkBoat said:
your 82 was before the foamed in tanks?
Bilge passes under tank? PVC pipe or wood & glass?

Tank in good shape?...thats OLD!

I did an aluminum replacement and re-foamed it in.
I think plastic would be better. I have since seen a Moeller 55 that will work.

I would keep the tank aft.
Click to expand...

Bilge passed under the tank via PVC. Tank was foamed in when I bought her in 92. Replaced it around 97.
 
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