Use starboard ( Pics )

Z

Zebra

Junior Member
Ive got all these holes in the gunnels of this boat was thinkin maybe use thin starboard about 3" wide and run a strip down each side. go around the bimini frame.  Z

Starboardgunnel.jpg



Portgunnel.jpg
 
That larger hole forward is for gunnell mount outriggers. I'd throw the bases back in the holes, they are cheaper than starboard.

Airslot
 
TO FIX PREVIOUS HOLES LIKE WHERE STUFF USED TO BE MOUNTED, I JUST USE A LOT OF 5200 ON A NICE SHEET METAL SCREW, AND A WASHER. EASIER THAN GLASSING AND DOES NOT LOOK THAT BAD EITHER, GOING TO THE BOAT TONIGHT, I WILL POST SOME PICS.
 
Those are fairly easy fixes to epoxy and glass the right way. Skools is pretty good on this stuff, but I think I'd be usin the screw hole surrounding the larger holes to attach some plywood, a secondary piece of ply cut to the shape of the hole to fill in. Epoxy the plywood to seal. Glass everything over and fair until even and smooth.
 
I'd be usin the screw hole surrounding the larger holes to attach some plywood, a secondary piece of ply cut to the shape of the hole to fill in. Epoxy the plywood to seal. Glass everything over and fair until even and smooth.
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Not alot different than patching a hole in some sheetrock huh...
 
Screw holes, Marine tex!! and if tey are in lets say the deck, I hammer a resin soaked golf T in the hole let dry and cut off, cove with small amount of resin colored or gel coat.
 
Zebra said:
Ive got all these holes in the gunnels of this boat was thinkin maybe use thin starboard about 3" wide and run a strip down each side. go around the bimini frame
Click to expand...

Ya know...I kinda like the idea...use 1/2" Starboard, 1/4''
round-over router bit around all edges and screw in from under the gunwale so ya don't show any fasteners...but I wouldn' go around Bimini frame ...take it up and remount on the new Starboard...the only problem I can't get past are the seams(no router here) where it'll butt together...that'll have to be TIGHT to look good...

The ''strips'' will have to be as wide as the widest hardware (rod-holders for instance)

Good luck and keep the pics comin' ;) ...
 
That would look good too RAP. What you do at the seams is to lay a table saw blade down to the shallowest angle you can get and cut across the width. Then the next piece will have the reverse angle to lay on top of the previous piece. That hides most of the seam line. You would do the same thing for interior and exterior trim on your house for long runs. ;)
 
H@ll just side your whole house with starboard ;D

All kidding aside that sounds like a good idea with the gunnels, only thing I am not quite sure of is if it will look too much like you covered your boat with cutting board. Does that stuff come in colors, cause I think that much of the stuff won't look to good.
 
chumbucket said:
That would look good too RAP. What you do at the seams is to lay a table saw blade down to the shallowest angle you can get and cut across the width. Then the next piece will have the reverse angle to lay on top of the previous piece. That hides most of the seam line. You would do the same thing for interior and exterior trim on your house for long runs. ;)
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Us contractors call that a "weather cut" ;) when done right and tight, they're invisible
 
Willy that stuff xcomes in all kinds of colors!! If he gets the off whit color, I think sand, it will match the weelcraft gel coat.
 
Yup, the angle-cut or weather cut's the way to go!!...important that ''strips" are SAME width...get screws close to this seam...
 
I'M WITH REEL, IF YOU TAKE STARDBOARD (1/2" OR 3/4")
AND MAKE A NICE PIECE WITH GROOVES IN IT LIKE A STEP PLATE AND THE MOUNT THE ROD HOLDER AND OUTRIGGER BASE ON TOP OF IT, AND SCREEW IT FROM THE BOTTOM UP SO YOU DONT SEE THE SCREWS IT WOULD LOOK GOOD.

LESTERUS
 
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