New Tank Pics!

fishingwithblue

fishingwithblue

Junior Member
OK, now what the hell do I do?

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My old tank had the red wire to the middle of the fuel sender, the black to the outer screw of the sender, a green wire from a bolt on the stainless steel fuel fill cap connected to a piece of metal welded to the top of the tank and another green wire coming from the neg of the batt going to another piece of metal welded to the tank both of which corroded off. How do I properly connect the new Inca tank?

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It was hell unhooking the old fill hose and what is this copper tubing on the vent hose for?????????? Looks weird to me! Gotta find new hose in Savannah area, any suggestions?

Drained water out of tank and broke foam seal with saw....tomorrow gonna try and snatch it out.

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DUDE, your new tank has a big hole in the middle of it!

Just messin with ya. The green wires are there to bond all of the metal parts to the engine where all electrolisis and corrosion can be directed to the zincs so that they corrode instead of the vital parts. And the copper is there to place a loop in the vent line so that it is harder for water to make it in through the vent, and to keep fuel in tha tank when you just filled up. You can also just put a loop in the hose and put it in so the loop stays in it.
 
Just guessing but the copper loop may be to keep gas from splashing out of a very full tank when the tank is sloshing around or maybe to keep rain water from running down the tube??? Copper would just ensure that the loop would not come undone.
 
Well, I see Ferm beat me to it......I clicked reply then took too long to submit......happy to see my theory was good!
 
Only need one green wire now, from the filler to the battery, Like frem said it is a ground wire.
 
The green wire also is to reduce static electricity. All the metal fuel parts are bonded together.
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For the nominal price of $7.54 a foot for 1 1/2 and $3.20 for 5/8.
The 1 1/2 will have a bonding wire in it.
You can put a ring terminal on the green wire and fasten it under one of the bolts to the filler nozzle.
Closest place for you is West Marine on Abercorn south of Eisenhower.
 
Hey, thats the same tank I got.

Do yourself a favor and break the spring loaded ball bearing loose in the fuel outlet nipple before you install the fuel line.
 
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Re: Specs
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From
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Replacing the anti siphon ball-barbed fitting is probably some type of violation somewhere. Replace it with a regular 3/8 barbed hose fitting.
 
Oh, usually replacing the ball valve, the strainer (filter) is removed because you are normally now using spin-on fuel filter/water seperator.
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fishingwithblue said:
Thanks...details please, yours got stuck right.
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Yep, mine was stuck. You can do like Tsubaki said and just replace it, but I haven't had any problem with mine since I unstuck it, and it keeps the fuel in the line so I never have to pump the ball......on the fuel line.

To unstick, or check, just unscrew the nipple from the tank outlet and check the spring loaded ballbearing inside to make sure it moves freely.
 
Coast Guard requires an anti siphon valve in line on any fuel tank that drops lower than the outlet on the tank to prevent siphoning of fuel into the bilge in case there is a break in the fuel line. Most outboards have problems with anti siphon valves becasue the fuel pumps create so little vacuum. Old carb I/O and IBs used mechanical fuel pumps that would draw more than enough vacuum to over ride the check valve, newer engines with electric fuel pumps don't pull enough vacuum to over ride the check valve with out casuing issues, so they are now installing electric anti siphon valves that are tied into the fuel line. Most people float test the antispion valves. If you want to stay legal(not that anyone goes poking around in your bilge), install a manual shutoff valve, they meet the requirements for an outboard boat, you don't even have to turn it off, its just here in case you have a broken fuel line
 
Thanks

randlemanboater said:
Yep, mine was stuck. You can do like Tsubaki said and just replace it, but I haven't had any problem with mine since I unstuck it, and it keeps the fuel in the line so I never have to pump the ball......on the fuel line.

To unstick, or check, just unscrew the nipple from the tank outlet and check the spring loaded ballbearing inside to make sure it moves freely.
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I did just that! It moves freely so I'll run with it intil something happens.
 
spareparts said:
Most outboards have problems with anti siphon valves becasue the fuel pumps create so little vacuum.
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I'm guessing that the fuel pump on my Johnzuki is different from oldschool outboards, it being fuel injected?

I haven't had a problem since unsticking it that one time. It always starts right up without having to prime the fuel line.
 
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