1987 Looper v4 140 RPM only 4000

Skools Out said:
not 30" Ferm the measurment i gave above is straight out of the OMC Shop Manual. your 25" isn't 30" the shift rod in a 25" motor is only 26 15/16 "in length installed.
Click to expand...

I'm refferring to total rod length, not length installed. I put this one out there since he thinks his is to long so he could see if it was close. I know the 21 15/16" is the spec for a 20", I was just giving him the actual rod measurement so he could see if his was actually right. I'm willing to bet it is locked in neutral because he has the rod screwed in to far. I know thinking about it makes no sense, but with the geometry effect it happens.
 
yeah if he screwed it in too far it will lock it into neutral. crazy but you canturn them with it installed. just turn shifter up and the rod down then rotate with needle nose pliers. easy to adjust when it's only in need of one turn. or the shift cable could need adjustings too. when you change lower units it will need slight twiking.
 
Update

From what I can see it was welded and painted over a long time ago, I measure the broken rod it is exactly 30 " long on the workbench , I will order a new one tomorrow
 
The part number is 333005 and should cost you $63.34 for a new one. I only have 25" model ones in the shop right now. Maybe a member here has a 20".
 
Shift Rod

Yes ! My shift rod is here , I will install it this weekend , I however measure it up to the broken rod I was having issues with in regards to the length , It is indeed 1/4 of inch shorter , So as I assumed the v6 large gear case was too long, however it snapped and the new replacement is here , Wish me luck !!
Hopefully it all works and my engine will increase its RPM to 5k plus
 
Just make certain to set the length on it right. If not you will DESTROY your lower unit. That shift shaft needs to be within 1 turn of the adjustment or else it will only partly engage the gear. If you hear any slippage or jumping when in gear, DO NOT RUN IT HARD! Ease it back to the ramp and find out why. This was a lesson learned the hard way for me. And start off with a 15 or 17 pitch prop. 5K+ shouldn't be an issue, but ideally on a small bore looper you want 5600-6000 with a moderate to heavy load at WOT.
 
Update

Shift rod and new seals installed , bolted up like a glove , Tested in driveway hooked up to the garden hose, Verify complete shift into gears both ways spun it in gear to complete stiring up the old oil then shut her down to do a lower oil change low and behold water in the oil all milky stuff drain it and flush her dry and clean , I expected this since when I remove the old shift rod I felt the rod loose and free i knew the o ring was bad hence the proactive move in ordering one with my new shift rod.
I did not test in the lake as yet!!
I did notice an increase of "driveway idle" increase from 1200 RPM to 2100 since I bolted up the new V4 gear case is this normal ? I am guessing the v4 is less torque to spin verses the v6 gear case that was remove?
Note the original 1200 rpm is driveway idle not in water it drops to approximately to 900 RPM shifted fine.
I am wondering if I drop it into the lake if the idle will drop to an acceptable rpm for shifting or should I plan on adjusting the RPM down ?
 
I have mine set so it idles at around 1300 on the hose, and idles at 600-650 in gear. You want to keep the idle speed down some if you can, the V4 gear case clunks pretty loud on shifting if the idle is up there. Your current idle speed on the hose though can fluctuate alot. My engine with the 85 carbs idled up around 2200 on the hose, but dropped back to 750 in the water. You have to have it in the water at the correct ride height to properly set idle speed.
 
Update. One happy greenhorn !!

Thanks a million guys , Boat ran like it should , Low and behold it was the damm lower unit it was a v6 all along , New v4 lower unit runs like a rabbit , No stalls etc , I am running a new Aluminum prop 13 x 19 , I am only hitting 4,900 RPM at WOT , (increase by 1000 from V6 unit) While I am very please I may downsize to a SS prop I have 13 3/4 x 17 this hopefully push me over the 5k RPM at WOT ,
However an important issue pop up , I install a new Temp sender and gauge for the first time (no previous benchmarks) I notice at WOT the temp jumps to 180 degrees and pulling back to under 4 k rpm instantly drops it to 140 degrees. New T-Stats and water pump , Strong water discharge (not as strong as the v6 ) just my observation. I am wondering if it might be the impeller since I use the one from inventory , I am not sure how old it is but a visual on it looks good.
Note I have double sender on this block this is starboard side , I will connect the port side and observe the readings on it tomorrow.
Bottom line is I am very happy with the progress on this engine at this point. I am almost there I can smell it.
If any one on this site needs that V6 lower unit I will trade it for a V4 or something just let me know. I have a new spare cdi engine harness also.
 
Sounds like you need a 15 or 16 pitch prop to get you up to 5800. 5500 WOT is minumum if you want decent economy and acceleration out of it. As for your temp issue, sounds like you need to check the water diverter valve on the throttle linkage. Somebody may have installed the valve 180 out and it's letting it run cool at idle, and hot when loaded. The temp should be running around 120-140 at high RPM's, and 160-170 at idle-3000. It isn't meant to be able to go in 180 out, but it is possible. If this happened, it would do EXACTLY what you describe. And your hot horn should have been blowing your eardrums out at 180 engine temp. It should go off at 175.
 
Go to this post here and scroll down, you'll see where SKOOLS posted pictures of the valve. Make sure that the the piece sticking out off of the valve closes off the forward port when it is in the idle position. If it goes in the other way, it will block the water flow to the T-stats at idle causing low temps at idle and then let water go them at higher RPM's and causing overheating. These engines need higher temps at idle to make them burn cleaner, but lower temps under load due to cylinder temps being so high in them.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=7580
 
Update !!

I swap my prop at Boaters World for a 13 x 15; I will post the results when I test it in regards to speed and RPM at WOT.
I check the diverter valve it was installed correctly.
I think I found the high temp issue both Diaphragms on the thermostat installed backwards! And the little hole on it plugged with gasket sealer!! This installation will prevent water from flowing thru the heads!
I followed the diagrams from the OMC manual when I install this some months ago, it wrongfully shows the diaphragms backwards so I install it that way, despite my reservations at the time since the engine had none installed.
Today I check the OMC Service manual low and behold it clearly shows the correct orientation for the darn thing.
This is clearly why Jessie Ventura says you can’t write legislation for ignorance, I clearly could have been arrested and charged :) I blame the parts manual.
I also installed the second Temp gauge toady and connect up. No time for testing on the lake. Did a dry run on the muffs checking for leaks, looks good.
Thanks for all your help and attention.
 
Final update

Boat runs like a like a champ, RPM is up to 5700 at WOT with a 13 3/4 x 15 Aluminum prop . I did not clock the speed , damm GPS was in the car !
Temp is 140 at WOT and drops to 120 at or around 2000 RPM.
Now just for the hell of it, I rescued a V20 that was slanted for the dumpster today, I brought it for the Hull only its in great condition I could not pass it up. I will have it re-panted since the previous owner painted it with a roller brush and then looks like he was rained on !! I will post pictures. Check out the craiglist listing for it . http://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/645211943.html
 
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