2003 Zuke D140?

G

Gallagher

Member
Is anyone running this motor on their V20? I found one that looks to be in good shape but the guy is asking $6,250 for it. Seems quite high to me although a new one is ~ $12k. My 150 VRO is dead and I'm presently dry docked. Thanks for any input on the value here. Compression is all 180 plus and he's replaced a bunch of stuff. Comes with controls and gauges. Oh yeah, it's a 25 inch so I'd need to add a jack plate as well.

Thanks!
 
SkunkBoat said:
DF140 four stroke or DT140 Two stroke?
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The parts catalog only goes up to 01 for the DT140, so I'm going to guess he has a DF140 he's looking at.
Destroyer said:
And as usual, the ever present warning about corrosion on Zukes...Caveat Emptor...:head:
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Yep, SUZUKI makes GREAT engines, BUT they corrode like no other.
spoggy said:
Any different in freshwater? Or is it just too many dissimilar metals?
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Yes, even freshwater engines suffer from corrosion. Had an 87 SUZUKI 85HP engine on a pontoon boat that had never seen anything but Missouri frehwater lakes and rivers, but when I did some work on it, it was corroded BADLY inside the block. This was also a boat that had been trailered, so it didn't even get subjected to stray current in a marina. SUZUKI just used cheap aluminum for there castings, and tried to make up for it with ALOT of zincs(which most owners don't keep up with very well, espescially since some of them require pulling the powerhead off and disassembly to replace).
 
Yes, sorry, it's one of the four stroke models. Not sure which one.

Since I opened this thread I've learned that Suzuki used a steel bolt or threaded cap on an aluminum 'engine holder' for a span of years, including '03, which led to corrosion which, if caught early, could be repaired with a bit of welding. If it's not caught and repaired with aluminum, look out.

According to NADA average retail is $2340 or so which makes this look a bit pricey - especially with a corrosion issue likely at some point.

Dang it all, I need to get my V20 in the water. The weather out here is outstanding.
 
I've been mostly happy with my 2004 that I bought new for $10k installed. I did have the corrosion problem with the steel plug. To see my thread on that type DF140 in Search.

It is 10 years old now, 900+ hrs. Just changed the head zincs. They were due.
The head still looks great.

Just recently started getting a check engine error for Idle Air Control valve. I sprayed the hell out of it and did the Idle adjustment to spec and it worked for two trips and now I get it intermittently if I run hard and back off fast. New valve is $250 on Boats.net, probably order it soon

Its been very reliable, always starts at the turn of the key. WAY better than the 150 Merc I had before it, which had corrosion and many recurring starting and idling problems.

That price is ridiculous but as for the motor, I would buy a Suzuki four stroke again. My brother has a 1990 2 stroke 9.9 that still gets him where he's going while he tries to fix his 150 Merc.

Any used motor can be good or crap, does'nt matter the brand. They are a gamble and that's why they should be cheap.
 
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I have had very good service from my 2003 Johnson DF140 (same motor, different paint). I would say that mine has been close to 50/50 salt/fresh water use, I have had no problem with corrosion. But mine rarly stays in the water for more than a few days and I am meticulous about spraying it off and flushing it after salt use.

The motor pushes my boat nicely (40 mph top speed GPS measured), gets close to 5 mpg, starts on the first crank every time (even after sitting for a couple months), and the only things I have ever done to it is oil changes, water pumps, and spark plugs.

Just two weeks ago in the Keys I put the boat on gear to pull away from the gas pump and a guy on the dock looked astonished and said "I didn't even hear that thing running".

Mine new in 2003 was around $7200.

If you get it you will love it.
 
randlemanboater said:
After reading this thread, I better go inspect mine closer....it may be about to disintegrate right there on the transom.:oh:
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HEHEHE yeah I was thinking the same thing:oh:

If you do get around to changing the Head zincs, there are two in the head and two on the Rectifier. two use o-rings and two use gaskets. Boats.net has great exploded view diagrams, easy to get the right parts. Good prices. I also changed the T-stat, it was popped. I did just change the IAC valve today, seems good but need to make a day trip to see if the idle problem shows up again.
It is great that Suzuki has diagnostic codes on the Tach. Yuo need the service manual to know what they mean though. Without it I would have panicked and been at the mercy of dealer service.
 
I went out and pulled the hood the other day...looks almost brand new under there, no sign of any corrosion on the outside of that plug...may be eat up inside but I cant see it.

I do have a little rust on a few bolts here and there on the top of the motor where it took a splash of salt water at some point years ago...I just spray it down with WD-40 now and then and it hasn't gotten any worse.
 
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