Filling Holes in T-top

stuarbc

stuarbc

Member
So this weekend I removed the rotten hard top that was on my boat when I bought it...and replaced it with a canvas. The old top was bolted to the tower so I now have open holes all around the top......What should I use to fill the holes....I was thinking silicone.
 
stuarbc said:
So this weekend I removed the rotten hard top that was on my boat when I bought it...and replaced it with a canvas. The old top was bolted to the tower so I now have open holes all around the top......What should I use to fill the holes....I was thinking silicone.
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Wow!!...this is a new one...I'm havin' difficulty visualizin' what's happenin' here :head: can ya post up a couple a pics?...there is actually a fabric adhesive around, but I would think silicone would do the job...are you gonna glue patches over it or just cover the opening w/silicone?...
 
stuarbc said:
So this weekend I removed the rotten hard top that was on my boat when I bought it...and replaced it with a canvas. The old top was bolted to the tower so I now have open holes all around the top......What should I use to fill the holes....I was thinking silicone.
Click to expand...
If you want to do it nice and clean, post some pictures , I thoughts are grind the holes open a little, then use Marine Bondo (gel) not kitty hair and fill, then sand and paint or gel coat it , it will be good as new.
Here is an example of the stuff at work this hole was approx 2" wide
DSCF0042.jpg

After
DSCF0114.jpg
 
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Correct.....no sanding and paint since it will mess up the aluminum. The previous owner literally drilled through the top and the aluminum tubing and slid a bolt through it all....now my top is laced on and I am worried about water getting inside the tubing.
 
If the bolts went all the way thur the water will just run out the bottom, I would not worry about it. But if it makes you feel better just use silicone on the top and leave the bottom for drains.
 
Franco said:
It would be a great place to run some red led lights!
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No wonder he's The Grand Pubah...:clap:


But how many holes around the frame are we talkin' about?...1/4"?...1/2"?...Franco's right about Nav Lights in two of them...how many holes after that?...

The ultimate fix would be have welder fill in and grind, buff smooth, but of course that'll be expensive and you'd probably have to remove the canvas you just put on...

If the holes are small enough, lowes has aluminum "sex-nuts"...would show screw head from inside and flat, smooth hear from other which w/a small amount of persuasion could be conformed to tubing curve...

Could try a little alum. boat repair in a tube...
 
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filling with the screws is not a bad idea....but I think the silicone is the easiest route....appreciate all the help guys.....I've made a bunch of progress over the winter and will have to post some pictures soon.
 
<LI class=PageHdrNm>YOU COULD DO SOMETHING LIKE THIS. AVAILABLE FROM MC MASTER CARR. NOT SURE IF THEY WOULD LAY FLAT DEPENINDG ON THE DIAMETER OF YOUR PIPE...PIPE MIGHT BE TOO THICK TOO.

<LI class=PageHdrNm>

<LI class=PageHdrNm>Plugs

Push-In Round Plugs Commonly used to plug holes in sheet metal. Rigid Plastic
All are made of nylon. Vented plugs allow air circulation and permit heat and fumes to escape.
Snap In— Ideal as glides and protective bumpers. Rockwell hardness is R113. Maximum temperature is 185° F. Please specify black or off-white, unless noted.
Locking— Just press them in a hole—they have strips on the sides that expand beyond the hole diameter to lock into place. Rockwell hardness is R118. Maximum temperature is 250° F. Color is black.
​
Snap In, Off-White
​
Locking
​
Locking, VentedFits Fits Panel Head Pkg. ID Thick. Dia. Qty. Per Pkg. Snap In 1/8"0.031"-0.094" 13/64"1009688K191$4.360.15"0.031"-0.094" 1/4"1009688K36*4.77 3/16"0.031"-0.140" 11/32"1009688K2116.24 1/4"0.031"-0.062" 27/64"1009688K2216.26 5/16"0.031"-0.140" 29/64"1009688K2316.28 3/8"0.031"-0.140" 37/64"1009688K2416.29 7/16"0.031"-0.171" 39/64"1009688K3214.78 1/2"0.031"-0.140" 43/64"1009688K2517.07 9/16"0.031"-0.140" 47/64"1009688K3315.22 5/8"0.031"-0.072" 51/64"1009688K2617.85 11/16"0.031"-0.109" 57/64"1009688K3416.55 3/4"0.031"-0.109" 63/64"1009688K2719.040.787"0.059"-0.080" 63/64"1009688K378.44 13/16"0.031"-0.109"1 1/32"1009688K2819.66 7/8"0.031"-0.109"1 5/64"1009688K2919.901"0.031"-0.109"1 7/32"1009688K31111.28
 
stuarbc said:
filling with the screws is not a bad idea....but I think the silicone is the easiest route....appreciate all the help guys.....I've made a bunch of progress over the winter and will have to post some pictures soon.[/quote

Find a tap that will grab and put some threads in there. Aluminum galls easily on taps but lube it with WD40, kerosene or something like that and it will go in easily. Just don't use a tapping lube with trichlorethane, it will ruin the aluminum....or worse. Now use a short stainless round head machine screw and you'll have a slick rounded surface.
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The ultimate fix would be have welder fill in and grind, buff smooth, but of course that'll be expensive

I am not so sure about that I was talking to one of our boat reps today from out of town their ttop guy is not real busy right now since boats are not selling .... It might be the perfect time to see if you can get a welder to fix it. they might be willing to negotiate more to get the work...
 
Here is a quick pick from a few weeks ao....since then I have removed the hard top....replaced with canvas....made a new starboard side stern hatch cover out of starboard....and removed the teak rod holders and started refinishing them.....I will try to remember to take a few pictures and post soon

Boat1.jpg
 
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