HELP!!! PLEASE

Cy...Man, call the boss...tell him you're much too wasted to make it to work...ask how his skanky wife is doin' today...then go out and test the boat!!... ;D...problem SOLVED... 8)...no need to thank me...we're here to help w/any problems related to enjoyment of V20s... ;) ;D...
 
Thats just all the crad that goes in the tank. The sluge from old gas and stuff looks like oil.
I had it in my tank also. Removed tanks and cleaned all, reinstalled and good to go,

In your case I think the Seafoam syuff is your best bet to clean it all out,
 
well my first question is what is a STATOR?? ??? not sure what you are talking about. sorry remember i am a rookie at this. sorry

the second thing is that i thought the oily substance was just crap from over the years. i will add some sea foam.

thanks fellows
 
Scrap stinky's post, he's talking about outboards. The more we beat this horse,.....I keep wondering about ignition components. When on the way out they tend to show their symptoms after their warmed up. Hate to throw in more variables but it could be your coil breaking down, and that'd be a good thing cause their cheap.

Lance
 
I've gotta chip in here, I've blown 3 stators in 8 years on a mariner 100, and when they start getting close to death they'll just crank her over less and less reliably until one day there's not enough power to go. When I've been running with bad stators, they have consistently run fine once you get them to run. Maybe Mariner makes different stators, but that's been my experience.
 
Try changing your coil & purlpe resistance wire that runs from the coil to the back of the choke. Also pull the plate in the distribributor under the point and spray some wd 40 on the springs and clean up any rust to make sure as you twist the pate it springs back and is free working so your spark advance can work.

Don't do the following until you have corrected your problem.

The best thing that I did to my 470 was to do away with the points and put on an electronic conversion kit. She starts with the touch of the key and has held timing for the past 4 seasons.

Good Luck
gjgomes
Try this site, I learned alot about my motor from here.
@ www.boatfix.com
 
Cy, Ris Early sounds like he's got a good next step for ya...it'd be my next move... ;)...good stuff, Ris...electronic coil would slick-out lotta probs... 8)...
 
THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTION, THAT AND THE FUEL PUMP WAS MY NEXT STEP. ;D

PLUS I AM RUNNING IT FROM THE SEPERATE TANK ON SATURDAY TO TRY AND ELIMINATE THE FUEL TANK AS A PROBLEM.

RIS EARLY..... IS THE FILTER ON YOUR FUEL PUMP ON THE TOP OR BOTTOM. AND HAVE YOU EVER HAD IT OFF ???
 
Filter is on the bottom, one of the first things I changed when I got he boat.

The motors water pump runs off the cam shaft  and can be pron to leaks at the cam seal, so it is a good idea to change the anti freeze every season.

Set timing 4 degrees BTDC @ lowest rpm you can get, even better to use and advance type timing light and set for 32 degrees @ 3100 rpm. Make sure if you do this the boat is in the water. Running off the muffs  may not supply enough water for cooling.
 
WELL UNFORTUNATELY I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO SET THE TIMING, I WOULD NOT EVEN KNOW WHERE TO START. I JUST HAVE NEVER HAD TO GO THAT FAR WITH A MOTOR.

AS FAR AS THE FUEL PUMP I WILL FIND OUT SATURDAY WHEN I RUN FROM THE SEPERATE TANK WHERE THE PROBLEM IS

FUEL PUMP BACK OR FUEL PUMP FORWARD

THANKS FOR THE INFO
 
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