Rod holder ?

B

BillTex

Junior Member
Ok...I understand flush mounted rod holders are too long unless you cut through the rods boxes. Which you may not want to do due to drainage issues.

What if I place (teak?) wood spacers under the flange of the rod holders to lift them up enough?

Any reason this wouldn't work?

I cannot seem to find any good picture threads of flush mount rod holders...can anyone point me to some good pics that point out the issue?

Tx, Bill
 
Hmmm ... well, the holders are exactly that... holders... so their placement isn't all the critical. My downriggers have to built in holders each, so that's 4, plus 1 holder at the stern after the rod boxes, so that's 6 plus another one on each side in front of the rod boxes, so that's 8 (4 without the DR's) Point is, figure out how many you really need and place accordingly. Oh, and lets not forget the rod boxes themselves.. 6 there, but I keep my boat hook there also, so that's 5 available... and of course the cuddy for storage
... you get the idea...
 
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I should have been more clear; these would be for trolling (not rod storage). Lead line for stripers and off shore for tuna.
They need to be solid-they will get whacked hard.

Flushmounted in the gunnels will be required. I will need 6-8 holders.

I see a lot of old threads here that say the standard SS rod holders are too long and will require cutting in to the rod boxes and create a leak path to the hull liner.

A nice wood spacer under the flange of the rod holder may give enough lift to avoid this...does anyone know how much spacer I would need 1"? 2"?

Tx, Bill
 
I think i'd rather have the bottom on the rod holder sticking through the top of the rod box than raise them on the gunnell 2-3 inches. I troll for mackeral and grouper and can only drag 2 rods at a time.

How many will u be trolling with?
 
Not a great picture but in mine the holder protrudes about 1.5" to 2" through the top of the rod box and to a lesser extent through the rear. It pretty much drains into the cockpit and a little baffle work could ensure that it completely drains into the cockpit. It sticks too far down to use a shim on top of the gunwale IMO but maybe you could split the difference with a 1" shim and trim an inch off the bottom of the holder? Maybe just trim the lower corner off of the holder or maybe move the pin up some too and then cut a bit more off. Note that if you don't cut the rod box, the holder will drain 100% into the hull liner so covers or drain tubes will be needed.

 
jvitiel said:
Not a great picture but in mine the holder protrudes about 1.5" to 2" through the top of the rod box and to a lesser extent through the rear. It pretty much drains into the cockpit and a little baffle work could ensure that it completely drains into the cockpit. It sticks too far down to use a shim on top of the gunwale IMO but maybe you could split the difference with a 1" shim and trim an inch off the bottom of the holder? Maybe just trim the lower corner off of the holder or maybe move the pin up some too and then cut a bit more off. Note that if you don't cut the rod box, the holder will drain 100% into the hull liner so covers or drain tubes will be needed.
Click to expand...

Thank you...that explains a LOT. I'll measure everything...but now that I understand I don't think I'll have any problem cutting through the rod box. Seems to be a non-issue. I was having a hard understanding what the problem was until you posted this...

Edit; I would be trolling 6-8 rods for tuna...

Thx, bill
 
before you go cutting holes...

The other problem you will encounter is that you cannot angle them out in a normal trolling spread. The gunnel is not wide enough to mount them outward at 45 and 90 degrees. 6 rods all pointed straight back make a tight spread!

I have 3 in each gunnel...i'll try & find a picture...

forward of the rod box is a 0 degree (straight up,this is for drifting not trolling), aft of the rod box is a 30* straight back and in the far stern I have a 30degree angled out 90 degrees. There is room back there but you have to remove the "bait bins" and use a special rod holder from GEM that doesnt have mounting screws
 
Not a fisherman so take it with a grain of salt, I have just 2 30 degree rod holders mounted aft of the rod boxes, no cutting required. Have seen them mounted on the forward edge of the splash well, would probably need to be 0 degrees. Lumberslinger has a nice custom rod holder setup that transverses his splashwell. Would look pretty nice for what you need I would think. I don't think the spacers would look good. If I were going to go that route I would have full length teak covering boards from just aft of the side windsheilds to the back edge next to the lazarette storage hatch/boxes.

Get a bunch of good ideas and opinions before you cut holes. As soon as you do someone will chime in with the perfect functional and ergonomic solution.
 
SkunkBoat said:
before you go cutting holes...

The other problem you will encounter is that you cannot angle them out in a normal trolling spread. The gunnel is not wide enough to mount them outward at 45 and 90 degrees. 6 rods all pointed straight back make a tight spread!

I have 3 in each gunnel...i'll try & find a picture...
Click to expand...

Yeah...for sure would need to be angled. I haven't measured yet...but really the gunnels are that narrow? Where is the problem...the width of the flange vs the gunnel?

Pics would be great if you can find them.

I am trying to have a plan for all these mods so I can get busy in the spring. Unfortunately I picked up the boat 2 weeks ago and brought it home and covered it up right away before snow storm the next day...

Well, anyway...if you Guys don't mind I'll keep asking questions...it'll give us something to do over the winter. If we can't work on boats...at least we can talk about working on boats!

What about the swivel rod holders...anybody try those in a V20?

Thanx, Bill
 
Well, like Bradford, take with a grain of salt - I pretty much only troll Salmon on the Columbia River in Oregon and use Scotty socket type (the socket screws onto the inside of top of the gunnel) and they adjust in any direction. If they're strong enough for Tuna, they'd be something to consider. Another possibility would be to mount a couple of not very high stainless rails in the tunnels and get some clamp-on rod holders.

I just looked on marinepartdepot.com and saw some interesting adjustable stainless rod holders that top-mount on the gunnels, they look like they might solve your problem. I've bought stuff from them and it's been pretty good stuff and way less expensive than other suppliers. A couple of items that should have exactly matched had a different screw pattern and some of their descriptions (measurements) are a little vague but they've been good about taking the few things back that weren't what I wanted.
 
mawshj

some people use a planer board with line clips at 8---10 foot spaces that allows rods to be upright maybe 3 each side 2 strait back, nice patern
 
scook said:
Well, like Bradford, take with a grain of salt - I pretty much only troll Salmon on the Columbia River in Oregon and use Scotty socket type (the socket screws onto the inside of top of the gunnel) and they adjust in any direction. If they're strong enough for Tuna, they'd be something to consider. Another possibility would be to mount a couple of not very high stainless rails in the tunnels and get some clamp-on rod holders.

I just looked on marinepartdepot.com and saw some interesting adjustable stainless rod holders that top-mount on the gunnels, they look like they might solve your problem. I've bought stuff from them and it's been pretty good stuff and way less expensive than other suppliers. A couple of items that should have exactly matched had a different screw pattern and some of their descriptions (measurements) are a little vague but they've been good about taking the few things back that weren't what I wanted.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the ideas...but a clamp on type rod holder will not work for tuna.

Ever hook a Buick?!

Depending on tackle, your drags can be set at 30#-50# of force (or more!). A rigid mount is required.

We caught some Big Eye's this season that were ~ 200#...took 1.5 hrs to boat. We had a double header...what a dance that was!

Largest fish ever boated was a 910# giant...on my Buddy's 22- Hiliner. That was fun...

I hope to fish the V at the in-shore waters for Tuna...fuel will be tight...but I think we'll be ok if we pick our days.

I have fished out to 90 miles on that 22 Hliner and our 22' Grady.
A close eye on weather and Buddy boat are essential.

Thx, bill
 
Now that's fishing. I think you might find some of the stainless ones that bolt on top of the gunnels to be solid enough. Through-bolting with a good sized plate on the under side should be as good as you can get for attachment strength.
 
This is from page 4 of my transom repair thread

"Since I have clear access with the back cap off...
Added the new rodholders and flush cleats.
I wanted some 30 deg rodholders angled out 90deg. There is no way to get them in gunnels because they are too narrow.
I found these from Gem-Lux. They don't have screw holes so they are only 3.5 inch on the diagonal instead of normal 4.5 inch.

Put the rodholders right over the old holes for the cleats.

Thought they would clear the tubs in the transom hatches but they don't. 15 deg holders would clear or angling them out 45 instead of 90 would work. There no changing your mind...once you cut an angled hole thats it.

so now I have to figure out what to replace the tubs with. Only use them to hold boat soap & hand cleaner I think I'll tab in some rails to inside transom and the cap wall to mount a shelf. Thought about mounting a bucket in there but it would never come out once the cap is on.

If I ditch the tubs I'll post them here cause people are always looking for them.

Cleats went in easy. I like them. Don't use the stern cleats much since I clip to transom u-bolts."
 

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Thanks skunk...I saw those GEM socket type rod holders. They way you describe them...needing only 3.5"- might be just the ticket.

Thanks for pic too-really helps me understand the clearance issue.

Has anyone mounted flush rod holders on the splash wheel wall? Would the GEM type work there (3.5")?
If I could fit 2 in tight here and 4 in the gunnels...this would be a great spread. I like to fish 2 hex heads in really tight (1st wake) and then work out from there...


It's going to be a long winter...

Bill
 

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BillTex said:
Just found these at West marine http://mateseries.com/assets/print-marketing/Mate-Series-specs-public.pdf
Sounds a little silly at first-but look at how they mount-straight holes! If you Guys could take a look at the spec sheet and let me know if you think these would fit the gunnels that would be great.
3 7/16" max bolt hole pattern...

Tx, Bill
Click to expand...

I looked at those before.Would love to have them. The ovals would barley fit(only straight back) and the hole will take most of the wood.
:head:My memory tells me the top, flat surface of the gunnel is 4 1/4" on my 1984 V20cuddy.

You can get 2 regulars in each gunnel aft of the rod box and one forward of the rod box. Furthest aft Put a 30 degree straight back, just forward of that put a 0 degree and a 0 degree forward of the rod box. Use outrodders in the 0 degree holders.

You can also mount surface mount rodholders in various places around the motorwell.

My gunnel is modified so it looks very wide but heres a pik to give you an idea.

I don't think you can put flushmounts in the motorwell and have clearance for the battery/oil res/bilge pump.
 

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SkunkBoat said:
I looked at those before.Would love to have them. The ovals would barley fit(only straight back) and the hole will take most of the wood.
:head:My memory tells me the top, flat surface of the gunnel is 4 1/4" on my 1984 V20cuddy.

You can get 2 regulars in each gunnel aft of the rod box and one forward of the rod box. Furthest aft Put a 30 degree straight back, just forward of that put a 0 degree and a 0 degree forward of the rod box. Use outrodders in the 0 degree holders.

You can also mount surface mount rodholders in various places around the motorwell.

My gunnel is modified so it looks very wide but heres a pik to give you an idea.

I don't think you can put flushmounts in the motorwell and have clearance for the battery/oil res/bilge pump.
Click to expand...

OK...sounds like there would not be enough wood left for a sturdy mount using these Mate rod holders? Do standard flush mounts use a smaller hole?

Thx, Bill
 
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