Seeking opinions on this Robalo

awthacker

awthacker

Junior Member
I am considering making this guy an offer. Checked the boat out today, but have not met with or spoken with the owner directly except by text. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/boa/4894780450.html

The negatives: a few cracks and dings in the interior gelcoat, bottom is painted

The positives: 2010 4 stroke, very roomy for fishing or diving, enough seating to satisfy my wife and her desire to entertain friends on the boat, beefy hull should be good for running offshore

He's asking $16,250. I am thinking of offering $12,000 but would go up to maybe $14,000. What do you guys think about his ask and my potential offer?

Thanks,
Aaron
 
looks like a great deal, even at 16. only thing i know about robalo's are they are heavy. great ride and foam filled, even up the gunnells.
 
I believe some HP Yami's had issues with internal corrosion.

Suggest you check with:
1. Web sites such as The Hull Truth - for posts and information.
2. Call Yami dealers and ask - was this year and HP motor with internal corrosion issues ?
3. Ask how to check to be sure

The boat............take your time to check these and more.......
1. Transom - any signs of water intrusion.... swelling, bowing, movement inside or out
2. Hull - get under it and check for signs of repair
3. How does it sit in the water ? Scuppers above, and does the boat lean ?
4. How does it ride- you drive. Check throttle response and if it jumps on plane easily or labors.
5. Max rpm ? Appropriate full speed ? Steering pulls ? Tabs work ?

Be careful, don't rush, most all possible hidden issues come out if you do your work before deciding. ............And if seller won't provide water test, I'd walk.
 
Took a quick look at the boat today, but didn't make too thorough of an inspection because I was trespassing, lol. (Just knew from the pics where the boat was located and did a drive by). Talked to the owner. The number he will accept definitely will be above $14k, but I guess I'm willing to go higher, if everything checks out with the engine. I'm planning to run it Sunday. I guess I need to arrange to have it checked then, as well. The GPS is broken, so I have to (get to) look into that cost. It's listed on Boat Trader for $18k. Here's some pics of the gel coat blemishes.
 

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Either get a survey done profesionally, or at the minimum get a moisture meter and go over the hull with a FINE TOOTH COMB as the saying goes. Being it's an 81 that has had a major redo, it will only be as good as whoever did the work. If it was done right, then it should be a good hull, but if stress cracks are appearing, the owner may know the restoration wasn't done right, and he is trying to unload it before it gets to the point the problems are obvious. EVERY old ROBALO I have seen has had water intrusion problems, and rotted wood. So the deal maker or breaker is was it restored properly or not? As to the engine, they are pretty good, but hang onto your but when it does need repairs. I've got a friends 05 225 here(no VVT), and some basic maintenance on it is going to cost him well over $500 for just the engine. Also make sure it has had the zincs kept up with as some of the bigger V6's had corrosion issues.

The best money you can spend on it BEFORE buying is a survey to make sure the resto was done right IMHO.
 
You gonna have enough room for all yalls tanks in there Aaron? Its def a little roomier than my F20 in the back but with three guys in mine and NO tanks its crowded. Im just thinkin your V is gonna have you spoiled with all that room you are used to.....

And I would cap it at 14k max..... 12 for the low-hour engine and 2k for a 30+ year old hull and no GPS is a stretch. I honestly think if your not in a rush you could find a happier medium with a much newer hull and maybe something with 500-1k hours on it
 
I agree with SSIRedfish. Also the fact that the bottom is painted is a red flag for me plus how high up the hull sides the bottom paint goes towards the transom. This is sitting at rest unloaded at a dock, how low does she sit when loaded with gear and 2-4 people with tanks, people climbing over the transom with gear in 2-4 foot seas?

I do like the rear transom seat layout, will this work for diving, and how does she ride with people sitting back there? She's already *** heavy with a 225 on a bracket judging by the bottom paint.

The t-top looks nice, but how heavy is it? Check where it's bolted to the deck and how. Any cracks or tea colored water stains?
 
awthacker said:
Took a quick look at the boat today, but didn't make too thorough of an inspection because I was trespassing, lol. (Just knew from the pics where the boat was located and did a drive by). Talked to the owner. The number he will accept definitely will be above $14k, but I guess I'm willing to go higher, if everything checks out with the engine. I'm planning to run it Sunday. I guess I need to arrange to have it checked then, as well. The GPS is broken, so I have to (get to) look into that cost. It's listed on Boat Trader for $18k. Here's some pics of the gel coat blemishes.
Click to expand...

You requested input........so assume you saw my post, and THERMS regarding Yami potential corrosion issues. That would be big money if the engine's close to crapping out due to internal, progressive rusting.
 
the corrosion issue on the Yamaha's were related to 2000-2003 200/225 four strokes(I've seen several). The 250 of the same years used a different style exhaust housing and didn't have the issues that people talk about. I haven't heard anyone run into a later model(post 2003) with the corrosion issues. Besides the mentioned issues, most of what I see is corrosion on the trim components. Most Yamaha's use the Showa trim system, its the same that Bombardier, Honda, and Suzuki use so its not brand specific. As with any engine, taking care of your anodes is a maintenance item that doesn't need to be neglected. From what I see around here, the Yamaha's seem to hold up to corrosion better than any of the other manufactures. Mercury used to be the best but somewhere along the lines they changed their aluminum(probably coincides with the closing of the Stillwater plant) and its not as good as it once was. Back in the day, Johnson/Evinrude had a soft aluminum, it didn't corrode that bad, but it wouldn't hold threads well. OMC changed their aluminum for the worse some where in the late 90's. I can't comment on the newer E-Tecs as there are so few of them around here it would be hard to come up with an opinion on corrosion on them. The ones I notice in the stacks don't seem to be used much. Suzuki's are known for their corrosion issues and the failure of warranty to cover anything about it. Our area is listed as a "hot" area and Suzuki will not honor corrosion related issues on boats around here(explains why there are no more new Suzukis sold by local dealers). Honda has the worst aluminum of them all. i caution my customer who own if I have to take anything apart, I'm not responsible if it falls apart in my hands.

As far as that boat you are interested in, I'd have the engine checked over by a Yamaha shop. that's a real good engine and probably my first choice in an engine in that horse power range. I sold a new 250 just before Christmas for $14750(real good price), that should give you an idea of what the engine on that boat is worth(I'm guessing $9500-$11000). The only thing about that Robalo is what Ferm said, its only as good as the last redo and the person doing the work. Have the hull checked out real good. I've seen plenty of nice older boats with major structural issues that some one was trying to hide to get it sold. Good luck finding your boat

Bradford made a good point about the height of the bottom paint. there's a local guy trying to sell his 2002 Yamaha four stroke because it was too heavy for his Sea Craft. One of my customers went to look at it and it had low compression on the bottom cylinder, probably from the exhaust issue
 
awthacker said:
Took a quick look at the boat today, but didn't make too thorough of an inspection because I was trespassing, lol. (Just knew from the pics where the boat was located and did a drive by). Talked to the owner. The number he will accept definitely will be above $14k, but I guess I'm willing to go higher, if everything checks out with the engine. I'm planning to run it Sunday. I guess I need to arrange to have it checked then, as well. The GPS is broken, so I have to (get to) look into that cost. It's listed on Boat Trader for $18k. Here's some pics of the gel coat blemishes.
Click to expand...
That looks like paint damage to me, not gelcoat. Gelcoat is the hard paint like finish that is adhered directly to the fiberglass, and doesn't peel up since it is a resin type material pigmented. I'm guessing somebody used paint on it during the redo instead of gelcoat(very common since gelcoat is anerobic, and will only cure in the absence of air).
 
Appreciate all the input! So I felt like I had to reach a price I was comfortable at before I start shelling out cash to have a mechanics checking it, and we are there at $15k. I was putting the engine around $10, the trailer around $2, and the hull can be justified at $3... The t-top is nice and the layout is good (for me).

The water line is a good observation... The 4 stroke is much heavier than whatever was on it new. I'll need to see how it floats on Sunday, assuming we get past step 1 with the mechanic. The bottom paint I'm not as concerned with... I think it's ugly, but oh well.

I know this guys not hiding anything, but there could be plenty that he doesn't know about. He's owned for 1.5 years, put 33 hours on it, and can't even launch his own boat. At first I thought he was just sketchy (maybe lying), but I had a talk with the harbor master (boat is on storage yard at local waterfront condos), and he confirmed everything the guy said about his boating skill level.

Good idea to bring the moisture meter, I happen to have one and will use it on the cracks. I couldn't tell that it was paint because it is so thick like a crust... I can fix all that stuff as long as it's cosmetic. According to him the stringers are redone with composite when the transom was capped, so I'm assuming the whole thing was done right with Arjay or something. I don't really know how to inspect it... I'd have to pull the seat to pull the gas tank cover... Thats not really happening. Everything felt very solid... I bounced on it and check all the hatches.

My value of the boat is probably a little higher than some of you guys because it fits my needs and uses perfectly. I am not in the market to buy a boat... Would've sold my V first if I was. Just happened across the ad and I hadn't seen it listed before. It's a bit beefier than my V for sporty conditions; it has reliable, fuel efficient power and greater fuel capacity, which doubles my range; plenty of room for storage of gear, double the rod storage; most importantly... My wife likes all the seating so we can bring friends out tubing and booze cruising. We live on the water so we use it a lot, but the V only has two seats and everybody else is sitting on cooler(s). No good for her.

It's been a great 5 years, but it's time to move on from the V. A nice V21 dual console would do the trick. Or a Grady Freedom 225 ($$$$$). This is in the budget and I think I can get a solid 5 years out of it, then I'll probably be ready to move on again.

So if it rides a little low... Is that a deal breaker? Or could tabs fix it? I will be loading the bow with tanks and gear, but I will almost always have 1-2 guys sitting in the back, as well.
 
probably the biggest drawback for this era center console was the low freeboard in the stern. especially for divers(four guys, 2 tanks each is a lot of weight). i know of 2 or 3 up here that "turtled" in a rough sea. the combination of shorter anchor scope when diving and divers hanging on the transom is a deadly combo in choppy seas. this hull has been corrected with the closed transom and bracket.

go for it and keep the pictures coming
 
If your not "in the market", then I wouldn't rush to buy it. I would also be VERY judgemental of how it sits in the water at rest. Tabs will help when running, but not much can help when at anchor or on the drift. From what your talking about doing, I would hold out for something with an 8' 6" beam to it, and is meant for that kind of weight in the stern. From the pics, that one looks like an 8' beam hull, and is definately not meant for the added stern weight. Another thing of note I see from the pics is if that is indeed the waterline of the hull at rest, the bracket is going to be slapping when at anchor CONSTANTLY! You can see the water line is right up under the swim platform portion of the hull, and normally you want the swim platform to be out of the water a few inches. All you can do is check it out and see, but at this point in the season I wouldn't be rushing to buy anything. Unfortunately most of the good boats won't be on the market until spring when the sellers know buyers will be willing to spend the money to get out on the water.
 
No one here trying to rain on your parade..... just watch out for over enthusiasm about a particular boat.

There are LOTS of good to excellent boats in your price range for sale. LOTS.

I've found the used boat market to be the most " buyer beware " of all used stuff !

From little things to more major.

I'd still recommend you check on the Yami corrosion issue - from Yami and other sources.

If the motors heavy for the hull think about when the fuel tank is full, and you have 3-4 people on board !!

Stay cool and judgemental.....as if you're looking at the boat for a 3rd party.
That said, good luck.
 
bgreene said:
No one here trying to rain on your parade..... just watch out for over enthusiasm about a particular boat.

There are LOTS of good to excellent boats in your price range for sale. LOTS.

I've found the used boat market to be the most " buyer beware " of all used stuff !

From little things to more major.

I'd still recommend you check on the Yami corrosion issue - from Yami and other sources.

If the motors heavy for the hull think about when the fuel tank is full, and you have 3-4 people on board !!

Stay cool and judgemental.....as if you're looking at the boat for a 3rd party.
That said, good luck.
Click to expand...

Its got 100 hours and change on it I seriously doubt its got corrosion issues. Ive got close to 600 on my Yami and the only corrosion issue ive run into is the $15 trim sensor armiture. I will also mention outta the dozen of dozens of yammi's that are ran here in the heat and salt Ive not heard of one having corrosion issues, its not a suzuki.....

That engine is more than likely fine with the limited use and storage its seen. The 30+ year old hull for someone who spends the majority of his time offshore making the 70+mi round trips would be more of a concern for me.

My F20 dropped an inch in the back when I put my 4stroke and it actually greatly improved the stability and kept the hull from flying out of the wave. I can run 30+ in a following 3-4' sea w/o lurching out. Not saying the added weight will always help but it did in my case
 
Any boat you buy you'll end up spending money on, so if you're gonna pull the trigger I would offer your original $12,000 if you feel it's worth that, because you'll eventually end up spending the difference on her anyway plus it's still the off season.

The money spent on a survey would be very well spent on an older hull at that price.

Would a V20 bench seat and newer power fix your qualms with your V20? If so you might save some bucks and keep a hull that you know.
 
ssiredfish said:
Its got 100 hours and change on it I seriously doubt its got corrosion issues. Ive got close to 600 on my Yami and the only corrosion issue ive run into is the $15 trim sensor armiture. I will also mention outta the dozen of dozens of yammi's that are ran here in the heat and salt Ive not heard of one having corrosion issues, its not a suzuki.....

That engine is more than likely fine with the limited use and storage its seen. The 30+ year old hull for someone who spends the majority of his time offshore making the 70+mi round trips would be more of a concern for me.

My F20 dropped an inch in the back when I put my 4stroke and it actually greatly improved the stability and kept the hull from flying out of the wave. I can run 30+ in a following 3-4' sea w/o lurching out. Not saying the added weight will always help but it did in my case
Click to expand...

Low hour engines scare me more than high hour engines do. Corrosion tends to be the worst when a boat sits, not when in use. The engine is probably fine, but if the owner is truly that negligent in running a boat, he is probably that negligent in taking care of one(IE flushing an engine). ANY engine can be trashed in just a few years if it's not taken care of internally, and just because it looks good outside, doesn't mean it isn't rotten internally. I'm not saying thats the case here, but it is a possibility(and normally tends to be a greater possibility on low hour engines). I would be CERTAIN the mechanic that checks it out at least pulls the lower zincs in the heads. if it hasn't been flushed properly, it will show on the lower zincs the worst. You should see the ones that came out of my friends engine, and it has been RELIGOUSLY flushed after every use.
 
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