turbinedoctor
God
Thanks for all your input MJ. I have the grade 8 bolts that they recommed for the springs. 
Check your PM
Check your PM
Trailer Mods
- Thread starter turbinedoctor
- Start date
turbinedoctor
God
Pulled the hubs off today and took them apart and inspected. Bearings look good but I mashed the seals getting the rear bearing out. Will get two new seals, grease and repack the bearings.
Cleaned the threads on the lugs and lug nuts. Got new cotter pins. Took bearing buddies apart and cleaned them too.
Man, I'm doing more then what I had planned but since I got the axle out I might as well go through all of it.
No pictures of the fore mentioned work since my hands where greasy, dont want to mess up the new camera I got for Christmas.
Cleaned the threads on the lugs and lug nuts. Got new cotter pins. Took bearing buddies apart and cleaned them too.
Man, I'm doing more then what I had planned but since I got the axle out I might as well go through all of it.
No pictures of the fore mentioned work since my hands where greasy, dont want to mess up the new camera I got for Christmas.
turbinedoctor
God
Yeah but it's not my keyboard.
Every once in a while when looking at the GOOD MORNING thread the keys start to stick. ;D
Every once in a while when looking at the GOOD MORNING thread the keys start to stick. ;D
Airslot
God
Turbo, I'm going to assume you know to seat the bearings by tightening the nut while spinning the hub? I was taught to crank it down darn tight while spinning the hub by hand. Then back off nut. Do not turn the hub at this point. Snug the nut back down and back off to first hole for cotter pin. Not sure why I typed all that since you already knew. 
Airslot
Airslot
turbinedoctor
God
Thanks for the reminder, I knew it but had forget about it since it has been many years since I did any bearing work. I was taught to tighten nut till finger tight then turn to the next opening and pin it. Should be around 35 ftlbs. Thats how I used to do it, while turning the wheel.
TURBO:
BEING A BEARINGMAN I KNOW A LITTLE BOUT GREASE,
USE DOW CORNING BR2 PLUS, YOU CAN GO TO A MOTION INDUSTRIES OR APPLIED INDUSTRIAL (MY COMPETITORS) AND THEY CARRY IT, ALSO IF YOU'RE GOING TO BUY BEARINGS, TELL THEM TO ORDER "THE SET" WITH A LETTER "A" AT THE END (SPECIAL RUST PREVENTION TREATMENT FROM TIMKEN) NOT BY CONE AND CUP NUMBERS. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS SEND ME THE CONE AND CUP NUMBERS AND I'LL TELL YOU WHAT SET YOU NEED.
IF YOU INSTALL THOSE BEARINGS AND USE THAT GREASE, YOU'LL NEVE HAVE A PROBLEM AGAIN.
LESTERUS
BY
BEING A BEARINGMAN I KNOW A LITTLE BOUT GREASE,
USE DOW CORNING BR2 PLUS, YOU CAN GO TO A MOTION INDUSTRIES OR APPLIED INDUSTRIAL (MY COMPETITORS) AND THEY CARRY IT, ALSO IF YOU'RE GOING TO BUY BEARINGS, TELL THEM TO ORDER "THE SET" WITH A LETTER "A" AT THE END (SPECIAL RUST PREVENTION TREATMENT FROM TIMKEN) NOT BY CONE AND CUP NUMBERS. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS SEND ME THE CONE AND CUP NUMBERS AND I'LL TELL YOU WHAT SET YOU NEED.
IF YOU INSTALL THOSE BEARINGS AND USE THAT GREASE, YOU'LL NEVE HAVE A PROBLEM AGAIN.
LESTERUS
BY
No matter how you do it its not a bad idea to check them all and tighten if necessary after a time or two of pulling it (100 miles or whatever).
BOSTICK ANTI-SEIZE IN COOPER OR NICKEL IS VERY GOOD, WE DID A TEST WITH A 3/4 INCH BOLT ONCE FOR BOSTICK, WE COATED JUST A LITTLE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BOLT AND PUT A NUT, THEN WE HANGED THE BOLT AND NUT IN CONTACT WITH SALT WATER ONLY WHEN
HIGH TIDE, THAT WAY THE BOLT WAS UNDER WATER FOR A FEW HOURS AND OUT IN THE AIR FOR ANOTHER FEW HOURS (MAX RUST CONDITIONS) AFTER SIX MONTHS THE PART NOT COVERED WAS BEYOND RECOGNITION WHILE IN THE PART COATED YOU COULD TURN THE NUT BY HAND.
NOTE: DO NOT USE NEVER-SEEZ IN THE OUTDRIVE/PLATE BOLTS, YOU NEED CONDUCTIVITY THERE.
AS FOR YOUR HUBS, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF YOUR BEARINGS THERE ARE SOME GALVANIZED HUBS IN THE MARKET, SEALS BUY @ BEARINGBUDDY.COM
LESTERUS
HIGH TIDE, THAT WAY THE BOLT WAS UNDER WATER FOR A FEW HOURS AND OUT IN THE AIR FOR ANOTHER FEW HOURS (MAX RUST CONDITIONS) AFTER SIX MONTHS THE PART NOT COVERED WAS BEYOND RECOGNITION WHILE IN THE PART COATED YOU COULD TURN THE NUT BY HAND.
NOTE: DO NOT USE NEVER-SEEZ IN THE OUTDRIVE/PLATE BOLTS, YOU NEED CONDUCTIVITY THERE.
AS FOR YOUR HUBS, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF YOUR BEARINGS THERE ARE SOME GALVANIZED HUBS IN THE MARKET, SEALS BUY @ BEARINGBUDDY.COM
LESTERUS
turbinedoctor
God
Thanks for all the input guys and keep it coming seeing as I am not done yet. I got the new seals today and will repack the bearings and install seals. Will try to get pictures this time.
Lesterus: as I mentioned earlier in this thread, Never Seez works good on electrical connections. I have used it on many light bulbs and connections that get washed down by Hot high pressure water every night.
Lesterus: as I mentioned earlier in this thread, Never Seez works good on electrical connections. I have used it on many light bulbs and connections that get washed down by Hot high pressure water every night.
turbinedoctor
God
Well tonight I got the inner bearings packed and the seals installed. Tomorrow when I get home I will finish cleaning the splindles, pack the outer bearings and install the hubs.
In advance I would like to appolgize for the blurry pictures. Did not know how bad they were till I loaded them on the computer.
Everything cleaned and ready for reassemble.
Outter bearing packed and inserted onto race.
Seal greased up and ready to be pressed in.
Not sure if this press has enough butt to do the job but we'll try any way. ;D
There that should be enough pressure. ;D
Yep, looks like it got it down flush. Now to clean splindle and pack outter bearings.
That all for now, Stay tuned for more updates.
In advance I would like to appolgize for the blurry pictures. Did not know how bad they were till I loaded them on the computer.
Everything cleaned and ready for reassemble.
Outter bearing packed and inserted onto race.
Seal greased up and ready to be pressed in.
Not sure if this press has enough butt to do the job but we'll try any way. ;D
There that should be enough pressure. ;D
Yep, looks like it got it down flush. Now to clean splindle and pack outter bearings.
That all for now, Stay tuned for more updates.
GUYS:
I KNOW THE PROPERTIES OF METALS, THAT'S WHY I'M AN ELECTRONIC ENGINEER, HOWEVER MERCRUISER MANUALS STATE NOT TO USE IT ON OUTDRIVE BOLTS OR IT WILL VOID THE WARRANTY, I'M SURE THE DO HAVE A REASON.
TURBO, WHEN I SUGGESTED THE USE OF BEARING BUDDY SEALS IS BECAUSE THEY HAVE, IN ADDITION OF THE SEAL, A STAINLESS STEEL SLEEVE FOR THE SHAFT SO THE SEAL WILL RIDE ON IT PLUS AN O'RING TO PREVENT WATER TO COME IN.
WHEN YOU RIDE YOUR TRAILER, FRICTION CREATES HIGH TEMP INSIDE THE HUB, WHEN YOU PUT THAT HUB INTO THE WATER SUDDEN COOLING CREATES VACUMM
AND WATER FINDS A WAY IN THRU THE LIP OF THE SEAL.
I KNOW THE PROPERTIES OF METALS, THAT'S WHY I'M AN ELECTRONIC ENGINEER, HOWEVER MERCRUISER MANUALS STATE NOT TO USE IT ON OUTDRIVE BOLTS OR IT WILL VOID THE WARRANTY, I'M SURE THE DO HAVE A REASON.
TURBO, WHEN I SUGGESTED THE USE OF BEARING BUDDY SEALS IS BECAUSE THEY HAVE, IN ADDITION OF THE SEAL, A STAINLESS STEEL SLEEVE FOR THE SHAFT SO THE SEAL WILL RIDE ON IT PLUS AN O'RING TO PREVENT WATER TO COME IN.
WHEN YOU RIDE YOUR TRAILER, FRICTION CREATES HIGH TEMP INSIDE THE HUB, WHEN YOU PUT THAT HUB INTO THE WATER SUDDEN COOLING CREATES VACUMM
AND WATER FINDS A WAY IN THRU THE LIP OF THE SEAL.
turbinedoctor
God
76GMC1500 said:
I usually get it on everything. ;D