V20 Restoration Fla

All the above skunkboat.... Had to wind up pulling the tank. Attached is a pic of what it looks like underneath... Now more work and a new tank... Oh the joys of restoring v1
 

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Sometimes you gotta wonder why people do things. That off-the-shelf poly tank was probably $400 and a cluster&%$# to get it in. A new custom aluminum tank is $500-$550.

You can do it right or do it fast but you can't do it half-right, only half-fast!
 
i have an eng lift i used to remove the engine from the transom. it is removed by attaching the hoist to the flywheel. the original fuel tank is still available, from RSD alum. at Perry, florida, i payed 580.00 with delivery. do you have a outbd motor stand? ( i do not have one)
 
Hi Jet.. I do not have a stand but can build one.. It will be awhile as I want to get the tank and the floor in before I start on the transom... Will be digging out the rubble left under the tank and then start the process of putting it all back together..There is a place here in Tampa that is called Fiberglass Discount and the owner is a world of knowledge and his prices seem to be right..
Do you have a pic of the tank you put in ??? Would like to know what I have to redo before I buy one

Thanks
Royce
 
i have a new tank that is ready to go in just have to have it painted and wrap it up prior to installing back in fuel tank well. where is the figerglas shop? i like to learn how to work with that and do repairs
 

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wish mine was that easy!!!!! The fiberglas place is at 4705 No Lois Ave.. The owners name is Jesus... Phone number 813-877-6667... Seems to be a real nice guy and has all you need there..
Keep me posted on your progress..Will send you pics of before and after clean-up
 
Hey jet could you give me the dimensions of that tank?? I need to rebuild the area it goes in and that would be very helpful... Thanks
 
Thanks.... No work on the boat today but here is a before and after pic
 

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i cant load the file because its too big , pm me your email so i can sent it to you
the length is 44 5/8
width is 31 1/8
sides are 7 1/4
base of tank is 10 3/4
the height from the base of the tank to the sides of the tank is 11 3/8
 
Question????

the internet is a dangerous thing... I have read a couple of different articles that state you should not foam around the gas tank... They state that water will accumulate around the aluminum and corrode it and the poly tanks need to expand..

I know a lot of you restorers have replace tanks so what are your thoughts???
 
Roycie said:
the internet is a dangerous thing... I have read a couple of different articles that state you should not foam around the gas tank... They state that water will accumulate around the aluminum and corrode it and the poly tanks need to expand..

I know a lot of you restorers have replace tanks so what are your thoughts???
Click to expand...

If it were me, I'd just coat my tank with truck bed liner first, then foam it in place. Water would NEVER be able to get through that stuff, so there would be no danger of corrosion.

But WHY do Poly tanks need to expand? That's what the vent line is for. There is no expansion with built in tanks that I know of.
 
i used mechanical fasteners to hold my tank in, just so i can remove it easily for maintenance. the original was unpainted/coated and foamed in. it lasted 30 years.
a lot of guys use coal tar epoxy to coat. i have never used or applied bedliner, so i don't know about it. it does very well on scruffed up steel. some even powdercoated, but i have heard of it cracking.
probably the best is to do what you think is best/ affordable, then seal the deck very well. i chose to leave my compartment open for air circulation. not sure if that is best, but i can always go back and seal and foam.
 
Hey Phat did you put any drain holes in the gas compartment to let any water that may get in the escape? I want to seal the compartment but still having doubts about making it unexcessable. I like your idea about having it available to maintain. Do you get any water in there?
 
go back to post #32, that is the size of the drains i installed in the forward and aft bulkhead in the tank compartment. the original was a piece of 3/4 pvc, which was continually getting stopped up. the tank is sitting on 1/2 pieces of foam off of the hull on the sides. this allows air and water to drain to the bilge when inclined. any water in the bilge will flow freely in and out of the fuel cell compartment.
this is the part that concerns me. still not sure if i am going to leave like this or not. considering glassing a larger drain pipe to the bottom and sealing the compartment.
 
I plan on doing that also... I think the pipe running down the middle is a very poor design.. Seems like everybody has rot starting right there.. Will figure out some way to drain the water under the tank when I get the tank.
 
biggest problem with rot is the drain holes in the stringers where they meet the transom.
$1.00 worth of resin would have saved a lot of heartache
 
Ok guys big question for all of you... I have done 99% of the demolition on my V20. I am not wanting to do the final restoration of the boat due to many reasons.. Mostly financial.. I would like to sell the boat and motor (150 Johnson..needing work).. I have a dual axle trailer that I would sell with it for another $400.00..

I have bought the materials glass and resin to redo the stringers and bulkhead repairs.. Also have some extras that go with the boat.

Just wondering if I am in the ballpark with the price and how to advertise it.
I know its a project boat. the hull is is great shape. Don't really want to get rid of it but prevailing circumstances require it

Thanks for any input you may have

Royce
 
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Roycie said:
Ok guys big question for all of you... I have done 99% of the demolition on my V20. I am not wanting to do the final restoration of the boat due to many reasons.. Mostly financial.. I would like to sell the boat and motor (150 Johnson..needing work) for the $1200.00 I have in it.. I have a dual axle trailer that I would sell with it for another $400.00..

I have bought the materials glass and resin to redo the stringers and bulkhead repairs.. Also have some extras that go with the boat.

Just wondering if I am in the ballpark with the price and how to advertise it.
I know its a project boat. the hull is is great shape. Don't really want to get rid of it but prevailing circumstances require it

Thanks for any input you may have

Royce
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Sorry to hear that Royce :( It's really the wrong time of the year to be selling a boat, in any shape. If you can hold out until springtime you'll have a better chance of getting the dollars you're asking.

I'd not include the materials with the sale personally. Sell them on eBay separately. Better chance of getting your money back instead of just giving them away in a fire sale.
 
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