Slightly Twisted's new project
- Thread starter Slightly_Twisted
- Start date
Destroyer
God
Agreed on the LED's. Brighter, safer, easier to be seen and more reliable. Less likely to have the police pull you over for lights being out. Harbor Freight sells them for under $40 for a complete kit.... lights, wires, license plate holder, instructions. Anytime you have a connection, it's a potential source for corrosion, be that the trailer frame or a joining of two or more wires. However, when you join two wires you can take additional steps to insure a long life without corrosion. First, make sure the wires are shiny bright copper. (Blackened copper already has corrosion setting in... replace them if possible) Second, use special electrical grease on the wires before joining them together. Third, use heat shrink butt connectors that advertise as being watertight. (Again you can buy them relatively inexpensively at Harbor Freight) They have a special coating inside that seals the connector as it shrinks, making the connection far less likely to corrode. And finally if you really want to be fastidious, use some liquid brush on electrical tape (sealer) to coat each connection after it it cools. As long as you do these things you can be assured of many, many years of trouble free trailer lights.
To recap: LED's, bright copper, electrical grease, watertight connectors, liquid sealer = hassle free trailering. You'll sleep better at night.
I've had good luck with the HF LED trailer lights, both the boat trailer kit and the round snap-into-a-rubber-gasket units (like the ones on semi trailers)
Permatex dielectric grease - good stuff - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/
Slightly_Twisted
Junior Member
Thanks guys!! I don't have any problems as of yet, it just seems every few years with my old boat I would have to mess with the trailer lights.
So I had my first day off since Aug
it was sooooo nice. Had some time so I worked on the boat. Got a lot done, replaced the thermostats, disabled the VRO (after making sure the mixed gas was being burned), finished painting the rod boxs, got the reg numbers on. Over all a good day!
So I had my first day off since Aug
it was sooooo nice. Had some time so I worked on the boat. Got a lot done, replaced the thermostats, disabled the VRO (after making sure the mixed gas was being burned), finished painting the rod boxs, got the reg numbers on. Over all a good day!
phatdaddy
God
If you only have to mess with them every few years, your ahead of the game. I have 5 trailers, 3 boat & 2 utility, i tried about 4 sets of the led and went back to bulbs. I trailer a lot and I think the vibration takes its toll on the led lights. I run 3 wires from each light to the pigtail. And when i put a new bulb in, i use the dielectric grease on it.
I know how to work on a bulb set up, led's, you just throw away and go buy more.
I know how to work on a bulb set up, led's, you just throw away and go buy more.
Destroyer
God
Phat, I totally agree that bulbs are far easier than LED's to work on, but remember that LED's are far less likely to be effected by water or vibration. Most times when an LED trailer light stops working it's a bad wire someplace. The LED's themselves are totally encased in glass or plastic and are immune to water... however the wires going from the bulbs to the PC board can corrode at the connections on the board. Next time you have one fail, open the light housing, carefully remove the LED strips and the PC board and take a soldering iron and remelt every connection where the bulb(s) are soldered to the PC board. I've successfully repaired several lights that way.
SkunkBoat
God
my favorite subject
I have had sections of LED lights corrode in the second season and the "sealing" plastic made them impossble to repair. China can make things that look like lights...
I will add that you should make sure your trailer plug has a white wire connected to chassis ground on BOTH the car and trailer. Some cheap plugs don't do this and rely on the connection of the trailer, ball which just plain sucks.
I have had sections of LED lights corrode in the second season and the "sealing" plastic made them impossble to repair. China can make things that look like lights...
I will add that you should make sure your trailer plug has a white wire connected to chassis ground on BOTH the car and trailer. Some cheap plugs don't do this and rely on the connection of the trailer, ball which just plain sucks.
Slightly_Twisted
Junior Member
So it's been really crazy around here. Work and family have been all over the place! I've been trying to work on the boat but it's hard to find time. We were able to go on our frist shake down cruse!!!***128523; Everything went really well, we idled for about 10-15 mins then ran it at speed for about 20 mins or so. I was so impressed it had been so long since I had been in a V. After being in Jon boats, and bass boats I missed the smooth ride of a deep V. The only problem we had was the starter drive gear wasn't in the best shape and it wasn't engaging correctly. So we had to get towed in after a stop and it wouldnt engage. we had planed for a break down and had a second boat on call for a tow.
After getting back to the house, I order a few carb kits, starter drive gear, and a new steering system. I went with the Uflex rotech rotatory system. So far so good the carbs are cleaned, rebuilt, installed, and runnning. The steering system is installed and working. I don't have the best reaction to carb cleaner so I have to go full out with the gear when using it.
Most people have pulled their boats from the lake already so I rigged up a back up motor so we can do some more testing.
After getting back to the house, I order a few carb kits, starter drive gear, and a new steering system. I went with the Uflex rotech rotatory system. So far so good the carbs are cleaned, rebuilt, installed, and runnning. The steering system is installed and working. I don't have the best reaction to carb cleaner so I have to go full out with the gear when using it.
Most people have pulled their boats from the lake already so I rigged up a back up motor so we can do some more testing.
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Slightly_Twisted
Junior Member
Destroyer
God
It is always a good idea to have a get home engine. And I love how creative you are in rigging it to your swim platform ladder.... but how is the board secured to the platform?. All I can see in the pics is a board between the handlebars and the engine clamped to that board. I'm just concerned that it's not just wedged there, because until you see it, it's hard to realize just how much torque is applied by even a small 2.5 engine. Not saying it won't work, just saying that I'd hate for you to see your engine break off and go to the bottom of the lake. (Make sure you have a safety cable attached to the engine at the very least).
Other than that I love what you're doing with that boat. She looks great and it's easy to see that she's got a good home. Well done!!!!
Other than that I love what you're doing with that boat. She looks great and it's easy to see that she's got a good home. Well done!!!!
Slightly_Twisted
Junior Member
Yeah when I was building it I was thinking the same thing. The 2x6 is screwed into a 2x10 that is flat on the swim platform and butts up to the hull. I then used two 800 lbs straps to hold it down. I have two ropes for safety straps and thinking I'll add a 3rd. I really don't want to buy my friend a new motor!!
jjuriga
Junior Member
Well took some time yesterday and today to work on the boat. Replaced the water pump, the gear oil, and drained the carbs. I lost my engine flush muffs so I just took the boat down to the lake and dipped the engine. Took a bit but get it started when I noticed there was no water coming out of the telltale.. I had other plans so I didn't have time to figure it out. Today pulled the lower unit off again and noticed the pipe in the mid section slipped out of the pump. Realigned everything put it back together and it works just fine. That shift rod screw is the biggest pain in the a$& I hate that damn thing. I never seem to get it right.
I working on the boats title/reg and I should be ready for some water trials.
My wife named the boat today as well. Our son Finn is 2 and crazy wild all over the place all the time. We were kicking around some names, and talking about seeing him with a live fish on the line for the first time next summer when she stopped mid sentence and said "WILD FINN". It fits perfectly!!
that's a cool name, he'll appreciate that when he's older for sure!
Slightly_Twisted
Junior Member
Thanks guys!!
So I have a few engine questions. The first test run went great, but it was running a little rough. Then I stripped the starter drive gear (it was almost stripped anyways).
So I replaced that, then pulled the carbs cleaned them with crab cleaner then compressed air and replaceed the needles/seats/gaskets. It was running ok on muffs, but the linkage just didn't seem to return to the original position. I went to the lake and left the boat on the trailer and tried to set the idle. It just wouldn't idle, it would start run strong at higher rpms just not a low rpms. The idle set screw was set at the highest position.
I tried to adjust the linkage to get it to idle and just counldt get it. I'm kind of lost now, everything I do seams to make it worse.
You engine guys any ideas? 1985 omc 1.6 sea drive.
Thanks
So I have a few engine questions. The first test run went great, but it was running a little rough. Then I stripped the starter drive gear (it was almost stripped anyways).
So I replaced that, then pulled the carbs cleaned them with crab cleaner then compressed air and replaceed the needles/seats/gaskets. It was running ok on muffs, but the linkage just didn't seem to return to the original position. I went to the lake and left the boat on the trailer and tried to set the idle. It just wouldn't idle, it would start run strong at higher rpms just not a low rpms. The idle set screw was set at the highest position.
I tried to adjust the linkage to get it to idle and just counldt get it. I'm kind of lost now, everything I do seams to make it worse.
You engine guys any ideas? 1985 omc 1.6 sea drive.
Thanks
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That's easy to do, especially with multiple carbs.
I suggest finding out if your linkage is right first, then just set the carbs to factory settings & start there. That linkage has to be right or you're spinning your wheels, and from your description, i'd guess something is wrong.
Disconnecting the remote lets you feel a bind in the linkage better.
Note: there are guys here with way more experience than me. These days when my carbs need work I take them to a guy, my fat fingers aren't getting anymore nimble.
good luck
I suggest finding out if your linkage is right first, then just set the carbs to factory settings & start there. That linkage has to be right or you're spinning your wheels, and from your description, i'd guess something is wrong.
Disconnecting the remote lets you feel a bind in the linkage better.
Note: there are guys here with way more experience than me. These days when my carbs need work I take them to a guy, my fat fingers aren't getting anymore nimble.
good luck
Slightly_Twisted
Junior Member
it been a week or so. Things are really crazy around here with the start of hunting season and the end of football.
Got the linkage problems worked out I think. I just need to test it on the water. Getting close to being done with the bright work. I remade the rod-box trim, the front hatch rails, and the transom door. I had some mahogany left from some other things and was able to use the scraps. I'll take a few pics when I have a sec.
The next project I was thinking of going after was rewiring the boat. I've been trying to figure out what goes to what and what work and what doesn't. Seems like I cant get the switches to work and the lights. If I'm going to rewire some things I might as well do all the boat. I have 40ft of 2 awg left from my last boat and I think i would like to move the batteries to the cuddy. I'm going to put a bracket on it some time so I might as well do it now to get the weight forward.
Does anyone know or have pic of the stringers, under the red areas in the Pic below. I would like to cut a hatch into that area and rewire everything from there.
thanks
Got the linkage problems worked out I think. I just need to test it on the water. Getting close to being done with the bright work. I remade the rod-box trim, the front hatch rails, and the transom door. I had some mahogany left from some other things and was able to use the scraps. I'll take a few pics when I have a sec.
The next project I was thinking of going after was rewiring the boat. I've been trying to figure out what goes to what and what work and what doesn't. Seems like I cant get the switches to work and the lights. If I'm going to rewire some things I might as well do all the boat. I have 40ft of 2 awg left from my last boat and I think i would like to move the batteries to the cuddy. I'm going to put a bracket on it some time so I might as well do it now to get the weight forward.
Does anyone know or have pic of the stringers, under the red areas in the Pic below. I would like to cut a hatch into that area and rewire everything from there.
thanks
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Slightly_Twisted
Junior Member
Wow it's been a horable winter spring! Work had me going 100 mph everyday. I haven't had a chance to do many update online, but I've had some time to work on the Finn.
Finished all the bright work
New steering and control cables
Rebuild the carb
Updated some of the electrical (damn was that hard)
I couldn't get the engine to idel and then popped a powerpack. Got that fixed and had it tuned up and wow I'm impressed for that old motor!
First shake down run we get flagged down by a bass boat in the middle of the lake with whitecaps blowing 15-20 mph. His motor died and we pulled him 11/2 hours back to the dock and my motor never fussed!!
I have a few boat items I don't really need and kind of looking to give them away or trade them
I have two gps a 182 &162. ( I'll double check the number). Anyone need them/want them?
I'm looking for a kicker motor bracket for a 2 hp? Anyone got an extra they are looking to unload?
Hope everyone's doing ok!
Finished all the bright work
New steering and control cables
Rebuild the carb
Updated some of the electrical (damn was that hard)
I couldn't get the engine to idel and then popped a powerpack. Got that fixed and had it tuned up and wow I'm impressed for that old motor!
First shake down run we get flagged down by a bass boat in the middle of the lake with whitecaps blowing 15-20 mph. His motor died and we pulled him 11/2 hours back to the dock and my motor never fussed!!
I have a few boat items I don't really need and kind of looking to give them away or trade them
I have two gps a 182 &162. ( I'll double check the number). Anyone need them/want them?
I'm looking for a kicker motor bracket for a 2 hp? Anyone got an extra they are looking to unload?
Hope everyone's doing ok!