lumberslinger178
God
hammer , get astro turf for the front yard......lol
Teak treatment question
- Thread starter bassarama
- Start date
macojoe
Administrator
Sean were are you located??
There is Starboard and Seaboard.
Starboard is a Marine board made for boats and the like, and you pay a perdy penny for it!
Seaboard is the same stuff! But made for resturants, bathrooms, Marine use, ect ect...
Comes in more colors and different thickness, was much cheaper when I got mine.
As for were to get it, depends were you live? You will have to research your area.
But if you are with in the Boston, Ma area here is were I bought mine, they may ship also? and the prices here on there site have not been updated, you will hve to call to ask all your questions.
They now have a textured finish that they did not have when I got mine, it would have been great for the tank covers you walk on! But they are not slippery at all smooth.
http://www.jfreeman.com/cpg_seaboard.html
There is Starboard and Seaboard.
Starboard is a Marine board made for boats and the like, and you pay a perdy penny for it!
Seaboard is the same stuff! But made for resturants, bathrooms, Marine use, ect ect...
Comes in more colors and different thickness, was much cheaper when I got mine.
As for were to get it, depends were you live? You will have to research your area.
But if you are with in the Boston, Ma area here is were I bought mine, they may ship also? and the prices here on there site have not been updated, you will hve to call to ask all your questions.
They now have a textured finish that they did not have when I got mine, it would have been great for the tank covers you walk on! But they are not slippery at all smooth.
http://www.jfreeman.com/cpg_seaboard.html
Thanks Lumber, thats a good idea. ;D
Ok, went ahead and played with the power tools today. Pulled off the teak, sanded down, what a pain. Went out and picked up some teak cleaner. After sanding, I scrubbed it all down with some simple green and dish soap. After that, I spayed it up good with the teak cleaner and scrubbed the hell out of it. After it was dry, I sanded a bit more and then hit it with a tac cloth, then stained. I went with MinWax....only 5 bucks compared to West Marine Varnish for 27 bucks.
The wood is looking pretty good. Hoping to find some Man-o-war for the final finish coat. Cant seem to find it anywhere. If it all comes out well, I'll be pulling off the teak cuddy rails on the bow and doing them up the same way.
Ok, went ahead and played with the power tools today. Pulled off the teak, sanded down, what a pain. Went out and picked up some teak cleaner. After sanding, I scrubbed it all down with some simple green and dish soap. After that, I spayed it up good with the teak cleaner and scrubbed the hell out of it. After it was dry, I sanded a bit more and then hit it with a tac cloth, then stained. I went with MinWax....only 5 bucks compared to West Marine Varnish for 27 bucks.
The wood is looking pretty good. Hoping to find some Man-o-war for the final finish coat. Cant seem to find it anywhere. If it all comes out well, I'll be pulling off the teak cuddy rails on the bow and doing them up the same way.
lumberslinger178
God
hammer , looks good on the restore after your all done and everything is back on the boat you wont be disappointed.... and by the way i need help sanding down the deck in the back yard are ya interested in helpin 
Geekie1
Junior Member
Hammer, I don't want to rain on your parade, but Minwax Poly is for furniture and not intended for marine use. The only Minwax product for marine I know of is "Helmsman". Tried Helmsman and it didn't last. You will be refinishing or going the Starboard route next year. Starboard, Seaboard, Sikkens Cetol, are expensive products, but they do the job because marine use is what they were created for. I have pulled the V20 rod boxes, stern bilge hatch, cabin door for refinishing the teak and will post pictures when complete.
What I do to clean the teak is a solution of bleach and water and very little scrubbing. (unless the teak is really stained badly or someone put on a coat of varnish, paint, or poly which I use stripper to remove) The bleach and water turns the uncoated teak from gray to natural new teak color without really much work. By uncoated I mean bare wood that has maybe been only treated with teak oil. I like the look of teak oil, but don't like putting it on the wood about twice a year. The bleach and water will raise the wood grain. I let the cleaned teak dry. Then I sand the raised grain with a random orbital sander which is the most labor intensive part of the refinishing job. Then I apply 3 coats of Cetol Light, lightly sanding with a fine 3m pad between coats. I may need to clean and scuff up the Cetol finish in about 3 years to apply 1 coat of finish on top of the old finish. My boat is winterized and covered, but I will try to get a picture of my teak stern bilge hatch door that I just finished last weekend and post it. Took me about 3 hours cleaning, sanding, and coating not including drying time. I know this process works because this is about my 10th boat that had finished wood from mahogany, cedar, oak, teak, etc. somewhere on it and I have tried it all and made alot of mistakes!!!
What I do to clean the teak is a solution of bleach and water and very little scrubbing. (unless the teak is really stained badly or someone put on a coat of varnish, paint, or poly which I use stripper to remove) The bleach and water turns the uncoated teak from gray to natural new teak color without really much work. By uncoated I mean bare wood that has maybe been only treated with teak oil. I like the look of teak oil, but don't like putting it on the wood about twice a year. The bleach and water will raise the wood grain. I let the cleaned teak dry. Then I sand the raised grain with a random orbital sander which is the most labor intensive part of the refinishing job. Then I apply 3 coats of Cetol Light, lightly sanding with a fine 3m pad between coats. I may need to clean and scuff up the Cetol finish in about 3 years to apply 1 coat of finish on top of the old finish. My boat is winterized and covered, but I will try to get a picture of my teak stern bilge hatch door that I just finished last weekend and post it. Took me about 3 hours cleaning, sanding, and coating not including drying time. I know this process works because this is about my 10th boat that had finished wood from mahogany, cedar, oak, teak, etc. somewhere on it and I have tried it all and made alot of mistakes!!!
Lumber, I'll be bringing my palm sanded to help ya sand. ;D
Geek-1, yeah, I know Minwax is for insde wood. The Minwax was 5 bucks compared to 27 bucks at West Marine and I was able to choice my red wood color stain.
I plan on coating the stain with Man-o-war clear coat. This will give it a hard shell coverage and protect the stain. That is what I am hoping will happen.
Damm, now I'm worried. Checked the wood and stain is still tacky, but its in a cold room with no heat. Just turned on a space heater to help dry.
Geek-1, yeah, I know Minwax is for insde wood. The Minwax was 5 bucks compared to 27 bucks at West Marine and I was able to choice my red wood color stain.
I plan on coating the stain with Man-o-war clear coat. This will give it a hard shell coverage and protect the stain. That is what I am hoping will happen.
Damm, now I'm worried. Checked the wood and stain is still tacky, but its in a cold room with no heat. Just turned on a space heater to help dry.
Thanks. No I'm not looking for a job, I have a good job. (so far) ;D.
This is something I like to do, it gives me challenge and it keeps me out of trouble ;D
I could't never afford to hire someone to build the stuff I've built around the house. ( house inclusive)
I had a contractor giving me a quote for this room, he wanted 40k plus extras. I spent 8+k with everything, Nice difference hum?
